Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
The Yiddish colony of Whitechapel, the Jewish Ghetto; the Asiatic
colony in Poplar and the Dock neighbourhood generally; these and
others display all the picturesqueness, the local colour, the
kaleidoscopic life that many travellers go to distant lands to
experience. In London, all peoples, and all classes, have their
traditional strongholds, which are known and labelled. Thus,
Bayswater, where the "high life" among the Asiatic colonists makes its
home, is generally spoken of by foreigners as "Asia Minor." Here live
the rich and cultured Orientals, those who have come over for
pleasure, business, trade, or education; as for their poorer brethren,
they live out in Poplar, Shadwell, or anywhere in the near vicinity of
the East India Docks.
These Asiatics of the East End are a strange and motley crew; brought
in by every steamer, every heavily-cargoed ship from the East, every
trader "dropping down with costly bales." On the largest ships, say
those of the P. and O. Company, vessels of some 7,000 tons, there will
be perhaps some 120 Orientals on board, and, with such contingents
continually arriving, there is, naturally, in the East End, a large
foreign, though ever-shifting, population. Curious are the corruptions
of Indian words one hears, and strange indeed are the sights and
sounds among Malays, Chinese, and Indians. The famous opium dens of
the East End, turned to such dramatic account not only in Dickens's
_Edwin Drood_, but also, at a later day, in the _Sherlock Holmes_
sequence of stories, are now much restricted in their horrors by
police supervision. They used to be devils' haunts, famed for robbery
and vice--traps set to catch the unwary Asiatic; but missionary work,
combined with the clearances made by the East London Railway, has
effected great improvement in the opium den of to-day. In the words of
the writer before-mentioned:
"It looks like a private house, and no noise is permitted,
for it is necessary to keep it as private as possible to
prevent police interference. For they are invariably
gambling dens also, and the Asiatic who goes to gamble still
burns his joss-stick before the idol set up inside, in order
to propitiate his deity and get good luck. Though repellant
in appearance, there is a certain picturesqueness about the
interior of these places. The shrine stands just inside the
door, and there is a pungent odour from the ever-burning
incense, while vases of artificial flowers, mingling among
such queer votive offerings as biscuits and cups of tea,
give it a strange appearance. The Canton matting, which is
largely used in the rooms, gives a little local colour, and
the _personnel_ of the place is of a decided polyglot order.
You may possibly see one or two men lying about sleeping off
the results of their opium debauch: but gambling seems to be
the main feature."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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