Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
The "Jewel Room" is another favourite haunt. Here only some twenty
people are allowed in at one time, and the policemen are doubly
reinforced; and indeed, since the accident to the Portland Vase, it is
certainly a necessary precaution. This beautiful vase, lent in 1810 by
the Duke of Portland, was smashed by a semi-lunatic in 1845. This
man, suddenly and without motive, deliberately aimed a brick at it,
and crashed it into fragments, from which it has been cleverly
restored as we see it at present.
People who find the British Museum exhausting--and they are many--take
too much of it at one time. It is therefore small wonder that they
often suffer from a kind of mental indigestion--"Museum headache" it
has been appropriately termed. A pretty young girl complained to me of
just such a headache the other day: "I wanted," she said, "to go to
"Niagara," but _T--_ insisted on taking me to that dreadful Museum
instead, and I had to walk past rows and rows of awful headless things
for two hours!" Poor thing! But many people share her feelings without
possessing her frankness. And to walk through the long, gloomy
galleries of the Museum without due object, preparation, or intention,
is, no doubt, exhausting. It is true that we are there "heirs of all
the ages," but it is equally true that nobody can satisfactorily
inherit all the ages at one and the same time. If we content ourselves
with but one department for the day, it is wonderful how interested we
may become. Mr. Grant Allen--who, by the way, was generally unkind
about London, must have experienced the boredom that comes with a
mental surfeit.
"The British Museum" (he says) "is indeed a place to despair
in--or else to saunter through carelessly with a glance
right and left at what happens to catch your eye or take
your fancy. I must add" (he continues unpleasantly), "that a
certain blight of inexplicable shabbiness hangs somehow over
the vast collection; whether it is the gloom of Bloomsbury,
the want of space in the galleries, the haphazard mode of
acquisition, or what, I know not; but certainly, for some
mysterious reason, the objects here exhibited are far less
interesting, relatively to their intrinsic scientific and
artistic worth, than those of the Louvre, the Vatican, the
Munich galleries, or any other great European museum.
Dinginess and stinginess are everywhere conspicuous."
Mr. Grant Allen was, evidently, a West Ender. And as he elsewhere
calls St. Paul's "bare, pretentious, and unimpressive," and London
generally "a squalid village," we need the less mind his calling the
British Museum "a gloomy and depressed looking building." He had
evidently never seen the pillared portico shining in the May sun, its
flocks of pretty pigeons feeding on the green plots that line the
enclosure, and the lately-planted young plane-trees bursting into
vivid green,--a new "boulevard" along its outer line of railings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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