Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
The street called "London Wall" testifies to the care of the City for
its ancient monuments. The ruins of the old fortifications are
carefully built up, embanked, and made picturesque by a narrow strip
of greenery that was once the churchyard of St. Alphage over the way.
They are railed in from injury, and a memorial tablet is affixed. The
dwellers in the district still, however, seem densely ignorant as to
its meaning. I lately asked several youthful inhabitants, engaged in
the fascinating pavement game of "hop-scotch," what they supposed the
place was. They could not answer. The School Board, if rumour speaks
truly, is surely doing well to include the history of London in its
curriculum.
The street of London Wall has the distinction of possessing the very
ugliest church in the metropolis, that of St. Alphage. It has, indeed,
the one merit of being so small as easily to escape notice; though
hardly its ancient foundation, or the interesting monument inside it
to Lord Mayor Sir Rowland Hayward's two wives and sixteen "happy
children," redeem it from utter dreariness.
But we must now desist from our rambles, though there is yet much to
see; night is falling; that mysterious night that brings such strange
contrast to the City streets; the wild, fitful fever of their long day
is ended, and they are left to silence. The busy throng of workers
hurries homeward; soon, in the highways scarcely a belated footfall
resounds, while in the byways, by day so crowded, there reigns a calm
as of the sea at rest; like the sea's, too, is that faint, unceasing
tremor of the great City, the City that never sleeps. To quote the
poet of "Cockaigne":
"Temples of Mammon are voiceless again--
Lonely policemen inherit Mark Lane--
Silent is Lothbury--quiet Cornhill--
Babel of Commerce, thine echoes are still.
"Westward the stream of humanity glides;--
'Buses are proud of their dozen insides;
Put up thy shutters, grim Care, for to-day,
Mirth and the lamplighter hurry this way."
CHAPTER IV
ST. PAUL'S AND ITS PRECINCTS
"A deep, low, mighty tone swung through the night. At first
I knew it not; but it was uttered twelve times, and at the
twelfth colossal hum and trembling knell, I said, 'I lie in
the shadow of St. Paul's.' ... The next day I awoke, and saw
the risen sun struggling through fog. Above my head, above
the housetops, co-elevate almost with the clouds, I saw a
solemn, orbed mass, dark-blue and dim--the DOME. While I
looked, my inner self moved; my spirit shook its
always-fettered wings half loose; I had a sudden feeling as
if I, who had never yet truly lived, were at last about to
taste life: in that morning my soul grew as fast as Jonah's
gourd."--_Charlotte Brontë_: "_Villette._"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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