Of Hindhead it is as true as of other places with magnificent views,
that you must live on the spot to be sure of getting them. It is only
the greatest good luck that allows a casual visitor full measure of the
splendour of clear air all round him, north, south, east, and west. Even
if it is clear to the south it may well be misty to the north, and, of
course, the angle of the sunlight makes all the difference to the
sharpness with which this or that detail of scenery stands out from its
surroundings. In one respect the view from the highest point of Hindhead
is never perfect. To the south-east, on a neighbouring slope, the pine
trees that crest the ridge block out the downs over Brighton and
Newhaven. It is a pity, for only from the tower on Leith Hill, not on
Leith Hill itself, is there another view in the south-east of England
with so wonderful an expanse of country seen clear away to the horizon.
St. George's Hill is blocked with trees, so is St. Anne's; Leith Hill is
almost clear, but from Hindhead, until those unlucky pines grew up, you
could see pretty nearly thirty miles on any side. Not that the Devil's
Dyke and the downs beyond cannot any longer be seen from Hindhead; you
can get a fine view of them a mile away to the north, from the old
Portsmouth road, on the other side of the new road, but from that point
the view is not nearly so fine on the other sides. The hill is not so
high. On Gibbet Hill you are 895 feet above sea level according to the
ordnance map; if you have no map, you can consult a brass disc which has
been erected on the plateau, which gives you also other interesting
information. All the distances to the neighbouring towns are marked, for
instance, with the direction in which they lie as the crow flies--an
admirable idea, due to the generosity of Mr. T.W. Erle of Bramshott
Grange, brother of the Sir William Erle who put up the granite cross
which stands close by. It will be safer, in future, perhaps, to trust to
the ordnance map rather than the disc for the exact figures, for some of
them have already been nearly rubbed out, and Cockney names have been
scratched on the brass. There they remain, the only gibbet on Gibbet
Hill.
Prose-writers have had much to say about Hindhead, among them the late
Grant Allen, who pleased a not very exacting public with the not always
accurate natural history of "Moorland Idylls," and shocked it with
Hill-top novels. But I think no poet has written of the hill, unless it
is Charles Kingsley, who surely had climbed Hindhead and looked out on
the view from its bracken and heather when he wrote _Airly Beacon_. It
was one of the first poems he made after coming to Eversley, and it
breathes the scent of June fern in the air and sun:--
Airly Beacon, Airly Beacon;
Oh, the pleasant sight to see
Shires and towns from Airly Beacon,
While my love climbed up to me!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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