Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
An attentive examination of the Lepcha in one respect entirely
contradicts our preconceived notions of a mountaineer, as he is timid,
peaceful, and no brawler; qualities which are all the more remarkable
from contrasting so strongly with those of his neighbours to the east
and west: of whom the Ghorkas are brave and warlike to a proverb, and
the Bhotanese quarrelsome, cowardly, and cruel. A group of Lepchas is
exceedingly picturesque. They are of short stature—four feet eight
inches to five feet—rather broad in the chest, and with muscular arms,
but small hands and slender wrists.[35] The face is broad, flat, and of
eminently Tartar character, flat-nosed and oblique-eyed, with no beard,
and little moustache; the complexion is sallow, or often a clear olive;
the hair is collected into an immense tail, plaited flat or round. The
lower limbs are powerfully developed, befitting genuine mountaineers:
the feet are small. Though never really handsome, and very womanish in
the cast of countenance, they have invariably a mild, frank, and even
engaging expression, which I have in vain sought to analyse, and which
is perhaps due more to the absence of anything unpleasing, than to the
presence of direct grace or beauty. In like manner, the girls are often
very engaging to look upon, though without one good feature they are
all smiles and good-nature; and the children are frank, lively,
laughing urchins. The old women are thorough hags. Indolence, when left
to themselves, is their besetting sin; they detest any fixed
employment, and their foulness of person and garments renders them
disagreeable inmates: in this rainy climate they are supportable out of
doors. Though fond of bathing when they come to a stream in hot
weather, and expert, even admirable swimmers, these people never take
to the water for the purpose of ablution. In disposition they are
amiable and obliging, frank, humorous, and polite, without the
servility of the Hindoos; and their address is free and unrestrained.
Their intercourse with one another and with Europeans is scrupulously
honest; a present is divided equally amongst many, without a syllable
of discontent or grudging look or word: each, on receiving his share,
coming up and giving the donor a brusque bow and thanks. They have
learnt to overcharge already, and use extortion in dealing, as is the
custom with the people of the plains; but it is clumsily done, and
never accompanied with the grasping air and insufferable whine of the
latter. They are constantly armed with a long, heavy, straight
knife,[36] but never draw it on one another: family and political feuds
are alike unheard of amongst them.
[35] I have seldom been able to insert my own wrist (which is smaller
than the average) into the wooden guard which the Lepcha wears on his
left, as a protection against the bow-string: it is a curved ring of
wood with an opening at one side, through which, by a little
stretching, the wrist is inserted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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