Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
In the autumn of 1848, the Governor-General communicated with the
Rajah, desiring him to grant me honourable and safe escort through his
dominions; but this was at once met by a decided refusal, apparently
admitting of no compromise. Pending further negotiations, which Dr.
Campbell felt sure would terminate satisfactorily, though perhaps too
late for my purpose, he applied to the Nepal Rajah for permission for
me to visit the Tibetan passes, west of Kinchinjunga; proposing in the
meanwhile to arrange for my return through Sikkim. Through the kindness
of Col. Thoresby, the Resident at that Court, and the influence of Jung
Bahadoor, this request was promptly acceded to, and a guard of six
Nepalese soldiers and two officers was sent to Dorjiling to conduct me
to any part of the eastern districts of Nepal which I might select. I
decided upon following up the Tambur, a branch of the Arun river, and
exploring the two easternmost of the Nepalese passes into Tibet
(Wallanchoon and Kanglachem), which would bring me as near to the
central mass and loftiest part of the eastern flank of Kinchinjunga as
possible.
For this expedition (which occupied three months), all the arrangements
were undertaken for me by Dr. Campbell, who aforded me every facility
which in his government position he could command, besides personally
superintending the equipment and provisioning of my party. Taking
horses or loaded animals of any kind was not expedient: the whole
journey was to be performed on foot, and everything carried on men’s
backs. As we were to march through wholly unexplored countries, where
food was only procurable at uncertain intervals, it was necessary to
engage a large body of porters, some of whom should carry bags of rice
for the coolies and themselves too. The difficulty of selecting these
carriers, of whom thirty were required, was very great. The Lepchas,
the best and most tractable, and over whom Dr. Campbell had the most
direct influence, disliked employment out of Sikkim, especially in so
warlike a country as Nepal: and they were besides thought unfit for the
snowy regions. The Nepalese, of whom there were many residing as
British subjects in Dorjiling, were mostly run-aways from their own
country, and afraid of being claimed, should they return to it, by the
lords of the soil. To employ Limboos, Moormis, Hindoos, or other
natives of low elevations, was out of the question; and no course
appeared advisable but to engage some of the Bhotan run-aways domiciled
in Dorjiling, who are accustomed to travel at all elevations, and fear
nothing but a return to the country which they have abandoned as
slaves, or as culprits: they are immensely powerful, and though
intractable to the last degree, are generally glad to work and behave
well for money. The choice, as will hereafter be seen, was unfortunate,
though at the time unanimously approved.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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