Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
A few of the Bhotan coolies having voluntarily returned, I left Tonglo
on the 5th, and descended its west flank to the Mai, a feeder of the
Myong. The descent was as abrupt as that on the east face, but through
less dense forest; the Sikkim side (that facing the east) being much
the dampest. I encamped at dark by a small village, (Jummanoo) at 4,360
feet, having descended 5000 feet in five hours. Hence we marched
eastward to the village of Sakkiazung, which we reached on the third
day, crossing _en route_ several spurs 4000 to 6000 feet high, from the
same ridge, and as many rivers, which all fall into the Myong, and
whose beds are elevated from 2,500 to 3000 feet.
Though rich and fertile, the country is scantily populated, and coolies
were procured with difficulty: I therefore sent back to Dorjiling all
but absolute indispensables, and on the 9th of November started up the
ridge in a northerly direction, taking the road from Ilam to
Wallanchoon. The ascent was gradual, through a fine forest, full of
horn-bills (_Buceros_), a bird resembling the Toucan (“Dhunass”
Lepcha); at 7000 feet an oak (_Quercus semecarpifolia_), “Khasrou” of
the Nepalese, commences, a tree which is common as far west as Kashmir,
but which I never found in Sikkim, though it appears again in
Bhotan.[68] No oak in Sikkim attains a greater elevation than 10,000.]
It forms a broad-headed tree, and has a very handsome appearance; its
favourite locality is on grassy open shoulders of the mountains. It was
accompanied by an _Astragalus, Geranium,_ and several other plants of
the drier interior parts of Sikkim. Water is very scarce along the
ridge; we walked fully eight miles without finding any, and were at
length obliged to encamp at 8,350 feet by the only spring that we
should be able to reach. With respect to drought, this ridge differs
materially from Sikkim, where water abounds at all elevations; and the
cause is obviously its position to the westward of the great ridge of
Singalelah (including Tonglo) by which the S.W. currents are drained of
their moisture. Here again, the east flank was much the dampest and
most luxuriantly wooded.
[68] This oak ascends in the N.W. Himalaya to the highest limit of
forest (12,000 feet).
While my men encamped on a very narrow ridge, I ascended a rocky
summit, composed of great blocks of gneiss, from which I obtained a
superb view to the westward. Immediately below a fearfully sudden
descent, ran the Daomy River, bounded on the opposite side by another
parallel ridge of Sakkiazung, enclosing, with that on which I stood, a
gulf from 6000 to 7000 feet deep, of wooded ridges, which, as it were,
radiated outwards as they ascended upwards in rocky spurs to the
pine-clad peaks around. To the south-west, in the extreme distance,
were the boundless plains of India, upwards of 100 miles off, with the
Cosi meandering through them like a silver thread.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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