Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
I reached the east bank of the Tambur, on the 13th of November, at its
junction with the Khawa, in a deep gorge. It formed a grand stream,
larger than the Teesta, of a pale, sea-green, muddy colour, and flowed
rapidly with a strong ripple, but no foam; it rises six feet in the
rains, but ice never descends nearly so low; its breadth was sixty to
eighty yards, its temperature 55° to 58°. The breadth of the foaming
Khawa was twelve to fifteen yards, and its temperature 56·5°. The
surrounding vegetation was entirely tropical, consisting of scrubby sal
trees, acacia, _Grislea, Emblica, Hibiscus,_ etc.; the elevation being
but 1,300 feet, though the spot was twenty-five miles in a straight
line from the plains. I camped at the fork of the rivers, on a fine
terrace fifty feet above the water, about seventy yards long, and one
hundred broad, quite flat-topped, and composed of shingle, gravel,
etc., with enormous boulders of gneiss, quartz, and hornstone, much
water-worn; it was girt by another broken terrace, twelve feet or so
above the water, and covered with long grass and bushes.
The main road from Ilam to Wallanchoon, which I quitted on Sakkiazung,
descends steeply on the opposite bank of the river, which I crossed in
a canoe formed of a hollow trunk (of Toon), thirty feet long. There is
considerable traffic along this road; and I was visited by numbers of
natives, all Hindoos, who coolly squatted before my tent-door, and
stared with their large black, vacant, lustrous eyes: they appear
singularly indolent, and great beggars.
The land seems highly favoured by nature, and the population, though so
scattered, is in reality considerable, the varied elevation giving a
large surface; but the natives care for no more than will satisfy their
immediate wants. The river swarms with fish, but they are too lazy to
catch them, and they have seldom anything better to give or sell
than sticks of sugar-cane, which when peeled form a refreshing morsel
in these scorching marches. They have few and poor oranges, citrons,
and lemons, very bad plantains, and but little else;—eggs, fowls, and
milk are all scarce. Horned cattle are of course never killed by
Hindoos, and it was but seldom that I could replenish my larder with a
kid. Potatos are unknown, but my Sepoys often brought me large coarse
radishes and legumes.
From the junction of the rivers the road led up the Tambur to Mywa
Guola; about sixteen miles by the river, but fully thirty-five, as we
wound, ascended, and descended, during three days’ marches. We were
ferried across the stream in a canoe much ruder than that of the New
Zealander. I watched my party crossing by boat-loads of fifteen each;
the Bhotan men hung little scraps of rags on the bushes before
embarking, the votive offerings of a Booddhist throughout central
Asia;—the Lepcha, less civilised, scooped up a little water in the palm
of his hand, and scattered it about, invoking the river god of his
simple creed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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