Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Immediately above Chingtam, the Tambur is joined by a large affluent
from the west, the Mywa, which is crossed by an excellent iron bridge,
formed of loops hanging from two parallel chains, along which is laid a
plank of sal timber. Passing through the village, we camped on a broad
terrace, from sixty to seventy feet above the junction of the rivers,
whose beds are 2100 feet above the sea.
Mywa Guola (or bazaar) is a large village and mart, frequented by
Nepalese and Tibetans, who bring salt, wool, gold, musk, and blankets,
to exchange for rice, coral, and other commodities; and a custom-house
officer is stationed there, with a few soldiers. The houses are of
wood, and well built: the public ones are large, with verandahs, and
galleries of carved wood; the workmanship is of Chinese character, and
inferior to that of Katmandoo; but in the same style, and quite unlike
anything I had previously seen.
The river-terrace is in all respects similar to that at the junction of
the Tambur and Khawa, but very extensive: the stones it contained were
of all sizes, from a nut to huge boulders upwards of fifteen feet long,
of which many strewed the surface, while others were in the bed of the
river: all were of gneiss, quartz, and granite, and had doubtless been
transported from great elevations, as the rocks _in situ_—both here and
for several thousand feet higher up the river—were micaceous schists,
dipping in various directions, and at all angles, with, however, a
general strike to the north-west.
I was here overtaken by a messenger with letters from Dr. Campbell,
announcing that the Sikkim Rajah had disavowed the refusal to the
Governor-General’s letter, and authorising me to return through any
part of Sikkim I thought proper. The bearer was a Lepcha attached to
the court: his dress was that of a superior person, being a scarlet
jacket over a white cotton dress, the breadth of the blue stripes of
which generally denotes wealth; he was accompanied by a sort of
attache, who wore a magnificent pearl and gold ear-ring, and carried
his master’s bow, as well as a basket on his back; while an attendant
coolie bore their utensils and food. Meepo, or Teshoo (in Tibetan,
Mr.), Meepo, as he was usually called, soon attached himself to me, and
proved an active, useful, and intelligent companion, guide, and often
collector, during many months afterwards.
The vegetation round Mywa Guola is still thoroughly tropical: the
banyan is planted, and thrives tolerably, the heat being great during
the day. Like the whole of the Tambur valley below 4000 feet, and
especially on these flats, the climate is very malarious before and
after the rains; and I was repeatedly applied to by natives suffering
under attacks of fever. During the two days I halted, the mean
temperature was 60° (extremes, 80°/41°), that of the Tambur, 53°, and
of the Mywa, 56°; each varying a few° (the smaller stream the most)
between sunrise and 4 p.m.: the sunk thermometer was 72°.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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