Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
At 15,000 feet, the snow closed in on the path from all sides, whether
perpetual, glacial, or only the October fall, I could not tell; the
guide declared it to be perpetual henceforward, though now deepened by
the very heavy October fall; the path was cut some three feet through
it. Enormous boulders of gneiss cumbered the bottom of the gorge, which
gradually widened as we approached its summit; and rugged masses of
black and red gneiss and mica schist pierced the snow, and stood out in
dismal relief. For four miles continuously we proceeded over snow;
which was much honey-combed on the surface, and treacherous from the
icy streams it covered, into which we every now and then stumbled;
there was scarcely a trace of vegetation, and the cold was excessive,
except in the sun.
Towards the summit of the pass the snow lay very deep, and we followed
the course of a small stream which cut through it, the walls of snow
being breast-high on each side; the path was still frequented by yaks,
of which we overtook a small party going to Tibet, laden with planks.
All the party appeared alike overcome by lassitude, shortness and
difficulty of breathing, a sense of weight on the stomach, giddiness
and headache, with tightness across the temples.
Just below the summit was a complete bay of snow, girdled with two
sharp peaks of red baked schists and gneiss, strangely contorted, and
thrown up at all angles with no prevalent dip or strike, and permeated
with veins of granite. The top itself, or boundary between Nepal and
Tibet, is a low saddle between two rugged ridges of rock, with a cairn
built on it, adorned with bits of stick and rag covered with Tibetan
inscriptions. The view into Tibet was not at all distant, and was
entirely of snowy mountains, piled ridge over ridge; three of these
spurs must, it is said, be crossed before any descent can be made to
the Chomachoo river (as the Arun is called in Tibet), on which is the
frontier fort of the Tibetans, and which is reached in two or three
days. There is no plain or level ground of any kind before reaching
that river, of which the valley is said to be wide and flat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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