Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Yangma convents stood at the mouth of a gorge which opened upon the
uppermost terrace; and the surface of the latter, here well covered
with grass, was furrowed into concentric radiating ridges, which were
very conspicuous from a distance. The buildings consisted of a wretched
collection of stone huts, painted red, enclosed by loose stone dykes.
Two shockingly dirty Lamas received me and conducted me to the temple,
which had very thick walls, but was undistinguishable from the other
buildings. A small door opened upon an apartment piled full of old
battered gongs, drums, scraps of silk hangings, red cloth, broken
praying-machines—relics much resembling those in the lumber-room of a
theatre. A ladder led from this dismal hole to the upper story, which
was entered by a handsomely carved and gilded door: within, all was
dark, except from a little lattice-window covered with oil-paper. On
one side was the library, a carved case, with a hundred gilded
pigeon-holes, each holding a real or sham book, and each closed by a
little square door, on which hung a bag full of amulets. In the centre
of the book-case was a recess, containing a genuine Jos or Fo, graced
with his Chinese attribute of very long pendulous moustaches and beard,
and totally wanting that air of contemplative repose which the Tibetan
Lamas give to their idols. Banners were suspended around, with
paintings of Lhassa, Teshoo Loombo, and various incarnations of Boodh.
The books were of the usual Tibetan form, oblong squares of separate
block-printed leaves of paper, made in Nepal or Bhotan from the bark of
a _Daphne,_ bound together by silk cords, and placed between ornamented
wooden boards. On our way up the valley, we had passed some mendongs
and chaits, the latter very pretty stone structures, consisting of a
cube, pyramid, hemisphere, and cone placed on the top of one another,
forming together the tasteful combination which appears on the cover of
these volumes.
Beyond the convents the valley again contracted, and on crossing a
third, but much lower, moraine, a lake opened to view, surrounded by
flat terraces, and a broad gravelly shore, part of the lake being dry.
To the west, the cliffs were high, black and steep: to the east a large
lateral valley, filled at about 1500 feet up with blue glaciers, led
(as did the other lateral valleys) to the gleaming snows of Nango; the
moraine, too, here abutted on the east flank of the Yangma valley,
below the mouth of the lateral one. Much snow (from the October fall)
lay on the ground, and the cold was pinching in the shade; still I
could not help attempting to sketch this wonderfully grand scene,
especially as lakes in the Himalaya are extremely rare: the present one
was about a mile long, very shallow, but broad, and as smooth as glass:
it reminded me of the tarn in Glencoe. The reflected lofty peak of
Nango appeared as if frozen deep down in its glassy bed, every snowy
crest and ridge being rendered with perfect precision.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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