Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The few plants about were generally small tufted _Arenarias_ and woolly
_Compositæ,_ with a thick-rooted Umbellifer that spread its short,
fleshy leaves and branches flat on the ground; the root was very
aromatic, but wedged close in the rock. The temperature at 4 p.m. was
23°, and bitterly cold; the elevation, 15,770 feet; dew-point, 16°. The
air was not very dry; saturation-point, 0·670°, whereas at Calcutta it
was 0·498° at the same hour.
The descent was to a broad, open valley, into which the flank of Nango
dipped in tremendous precipices, which reared their heads in splintered
snowy peaks. At their bases were shoots of débris fully 700 feet high,
sloping at a steep angle. Enormous masses of rock, detached by the
action of the frost and ice from the crags, were scattered over the
bottom of the valley; they had been precipitated from above, and
gaining impetus in their descent, bad been hurled to almost
inconceivable distances from the parent cliff. All were of a very
white, fine-grained crystallised granite, full of small veins of the
same rock still more finely crystallised. The weathered surface of each
block was black, and covered with moss and lichens; the others
beautifully white, with clean, sharp-fractured edges. The material of
which they were composed was so hard that I found it difficult to
detach a specimen.
Darkness had already come on, and the coolies being far behind, we
encamped by the light of the moon, shining through a thin fog, where we
first found dwarf-juniper for fuel, at 13,500 feet. A little sleet fell
during the night, which was tolerably fine, and not very cold; the
minimum thermometer indicating 14·5°.
Having no tent-poles, I had some difficulty in getting my blankets
arranged as a shelter, which was done by making them slant from the
side of a boulder, on the top of which one end was kept by heavy
stones; under this roof I laid my bed, on a mass of rhododendron and
juniper-twigs. The men did the same against other boulders, and
lighting a huge fire opposite the mouth of my ground-nest, I sat
cross-legged on the bed to eat my supper; my face scorching, and my
back freezing. Rice, boiled with a few ounces of greasy _dindon aux
truffes_ was now my daily dinner, with chili-vinegar and tea, and I
used to relish it keenly: this finished, I smoked a cigar, and wrote up
my journal (in short intervals between warming myself) by the light of
the fire; took observations by means of a dark-lantern; and when all
this was accomplished, I went to roost.
_December 5._—On looking out this morning, it was with a feeling of awe
that I gazed at the stupendous ice-crowned precipices that shot up to
the summit of Nango, their flanks spotted white at the places whence
the gigantic masses with which I was surrounded had fallen; thence my
eye wandered down their black faces to the slope of débris at the
bottom, thus tracing the course which had probably been taken by that
rock under whose shelter I had passed the previous night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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