Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
_December 7._—We ascended the Yalloong ridge to a saddle 11,000 feet
elevation, whence the road dips south to the gloomy gorges of the
eastern feeders of the Tambur. Here we bade adieu to the grand alpine
scenery, and for several days our course lay in Nepal in a southerly
direction, parallel to Singalelah, and crossing every spur and river
sent off by that mighty range. The latter flow towards the Tambur, and
their beds, for forty or fifty miles are elevated about 3000 or 4000
feet. Few of the spurs are ascended above 5000 feet, but all of them
rise to 12,000 or 14,000 feet to the westward, where they join the
Singalelah range.
I clambered to the top of a lofty hummock, through a dense thicket of
interwoven Rhododendron bushes, the clayey soil under which was
slippery from the quantity of dead leaves. I had hoped for a view of
the top of Kinchinjunga, which bore north-east, but it was enveloped in
clouds, as were all the snows in that direction; to the north-west,
however, I obtained bearings of the principal peaks, etc., of the
Yangma and Kambachen valleys. To the south and south-east, lofty,
rugged and pine-clad mountains rose in confused masses, and white
sheets of mist came driving up, clinging to the mountain-tops, and
shrouding the landscape with extreme rapidity. The remarkable mountain
of Sidingbah bore south-south-east, raising its rounded head above the
clouds. I could, however, procure no other good bearing.
The descent from the Yalloong ridge to the Khabili feeders of the
Tambur was very steep, and in some places almost precipitous, first
through dense woods of silver fir, with _Rhod. Falconeri_ and
_Hodgsoni,_ then through _Abies Brunoniana,_ with yew (now covered with
red berries) to the region of Magnolias and _Rhod. arboreum_ and
_barbatum._ One bush of the former was in flower, making a gorgeous
show. Here also appeared the great oak with lamellated acorns, which I
had not seen in the drier valleys to the westward; with many other
Dorjiling trees and shrubs. A heavy mist clung to the rank luxuriant
foliage, tantalizing from its obscuring all the view. Mica schist
replaced the gneiss, and a thick slippery stratum of clay rendered it
very difficult to keep one’s footing. After so many days of bright
sunshine and dry weather, I found this quiet, damp, foggy atmosphere to
have a most depressing effect: there was little to interest in the
meteorology, the atmospheric fluctuations being far too small;
geographical discovery was at an end, and we groped our way along
devious paths in wooded valleys, or ascended spurs and ridges, always
clouded before noon, and clothed with heavy forest.
At 6000 feet we emerged from the mist, and found ourselves clambering
down a deep gully, hemmed in by frightful rocky steeps, which exposed a
fine and tolerably continuous section of schistose rocks, striking
north-west, and dipping north-east, at a very high angle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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