Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
A thick forest of Dorjiling vegetation covers the summit, which is only
6,800 feet above the sea: it is a saddle, connecting the lofty mountain
of Mainom (alt. 11,000 feet) to the north, with Tendong (alt. 8,663
feet) to the south. Both these mountains are on a range which is
continuous with Kinchinjunga, projecting from it down into the very
heart of Sikkim. A considerable stand was made here by the Lepchas
during the Nepal war in 1787; they defended the pass with their arrows
for some hours, and then retired towards the Teesta, making a second
stand lower down, at a place pointed out to me, where rocks on either
side gave them the same advantages. The Nepalese, however, advanced to
the Teesta, and then retired with little loss.
Unfortunately a thick mist and heavy rain cut off all view of the
Teesta valley, and the mountains of Chola to the eastward; which I much
regretted.
Descending by a very steep, slippery path, we came to a fine mass of
slaty gneiss, thirty feet long and thirteen feet high; not _in situ,_
but lying on the mountain side: on its sloping face was carved in
enormous characters, “Om Mani Padmi om”; of which letters the
top-strokes afford an uncertain footing to the enthusiast who is
willing to purchase a good metempsychosis by walking along the slope,
with his heels or toes in their cavities. A small inscription in one
corner is said to imply that this was the work of a pious monk of
Raklang; and the stone is called “Do-mani,” literally, “stone of
prayer.”
[Illustration: Do-mani stone]
The rocks and peaks of Mainom are said to overhang the descent here
with grandeur; but the continued rain hid everything but a curious
shivered peak, apparently of chlorite schist, which was close by, and
reflected a green colour it is of course reported to be of turquoise,
and inaccessible. Descending, the rocks became more micaceous, with
broad seams of pipe-clay, originating in decomposed beds of felspathic
gneiss: the natives used this to whitewash and mortar their temples.
I passed the monastery of Neongong, the monks of which were building a
new temple; and came to bring me a large present. Below it is a pretty
little lake, about 100 yards across, fringed with brushwood. We camped
at the village of Nampok, 4,370 feet above the sea; all thoroughly
sodden with rain.
During the night much snow had fallen at and above 9000 feet, but the
weather cleared on the following morning, and disclosed the top of
Mainom, rising close above my camp, in a series of rugged shivered
peaks, crested with pines, which looked like statues of snow: to all
other quarters this mountain presents a very gently sloping outline. Up
the Teesta valley there was a pretty peep of snowy mountains, bearing
north 35° east, of no great height.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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