Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
We left a great part of our baggage at Neongong, as we intended to
return there; and took up with us bedding, food, etc., for two days. A
path hence up the mountain is frequented once a year by the Lamas, who
make a pilgrimage to the top for worship. The ascent was very gradual
for 4000 feet. We met with snow at the level of Dorjiling (7000 feet),
indicating a colder climate than at that station, where none had
fallen; the vegetation was, however, similar, but not so rich, and at
8000 feet trees common also to the top of Sinchul appeared, with _R.
Hodgsoni,_ and the beautiful little winter-flowering primrose, _P.
petiolaris,_ whose stemless flowers spread like broad purple stars on
the deep green foliage. Above, the path runs along the ridge of the
precipices facing the south-east, and here we caught a glimpse of the
great valley of the Ryott, beyond the Teesta, with Tumloong, the
Rajah’s residence, on its north flank, and the superb snowy peak of
Chola at its head.
One of our coolies, loaded with crockery and various indispensables,
had here a severe fall, and was much bruised; he however recovered
himself, but not our goods.
The rocks were all of chlorite slate, which is not usual at this
elevation; the strike was north-west, and dip north-east. At 9000 feet
various shrubby rhododendrons prevailed, with mountain-ash, birch, and
dwarf-bamboo; also _R. Falconeri,_ which grew from forty to fifty feet
high. The snow was deep and troublesome, so we encamped at 9,800 feet,
or 800 feet below the top, in a wood of _Pyrus, Magnolia,
Rhododendron,_ and bamboo. As the ground was deeply covered with snow,
we laid our beds on a thick layer of rhododendron twigs, bamboo, and
masses of a pendent moss.
We passed a very cold night, chiefly owing to damp, the temperature
falling to 24°. On the following morning we scrambled through the snow,
reaching the summit after an hour’s very laborious ascent, and took up
our quarters in a large wooden barn-like temple (_goompa_), built on a
stone platform. The summit was very broad, but the depth of the snow
prevented our exploring much, and the silver firs (_Abies Webbiana_)
were so tall, that no view could be obtained, except from the temple.
The great peak of Kinchinjunga is in part hidden by those of Pundim and
Nursing, but the panorama of snowy mountains is very grand indeed. The
effect is quite deceptive; the mountains assuming the appearance of a
continued chain, the distant snowy peaks being seemingly at little
further distance than the nearer ones. The whole range (about
twenty-two miles nearer than at Dorjiling) appeared to rise uniformly
and steeply out of black pine forests, which were succeeded by the
russet-brown of the rhododendron shrubs, and that again by tremendous
precipices and gulleys, into which descended mighty glaciers and
perpetual snows. This excessive steepness is however only apparent,
being due to foreshortening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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