Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The general arrangement on the summit was, first the Lamas’ houses with
small gardens, then three large temples raised on rudely paged
platforms, and beyond these, a square walled enclosure facing the
south, full of chaits and mendongs, looking like a crowded cemetery,
and planted with funereal cypress (_Cupressus funebris_).
The house of the principal Lama was an oblong square, the lower story
of stone, and the upper of wood: we ascended a ladder to the upper
room, which was 24 feet by 8 wattled all round, with prettily latticed
windows opening upon a bamboo balcony used for drying grain, under the
eaves of the broad thatched roof. The ceiling (of neat bamboo work) was
hung with glorious bunches of maize, yellow, red, and brown; an altar
and closed wicker cage at one end of the room held the Penates, and a
few implements of worship. Chinese carpets were laid on the floor for
us, and the cans of Murwa brought round.
The Lama, though one of the red sect, was dressed in a yellow flowered
silk robe, but his mitre was red: he gave us much information relative
to the introduction of Boodhism into Sikkim.
[Illustration: Doorway]
The three temples stand about fifty yards apart, but are not parallel
to one another, although their general direction is east and west.[102]
Each is oblong, and narrowed upwards, with the door at one end; the
middle (and smallest) faces the west, the others the east: the doorways
are all broad, low and deep, protected by a projecting carved portico.
The walls are immensely thick, of well-masoned slaty stones; the outer
surface of each slopes upwards and inwards, the inner is perpendicular.
The roofs are low and thickly thatched, and project from eight to ten
feet all round, to keep off the rain, being sometimes supported by long
poles. There is a very low upper story, inhabited by the attendant
monks and servants, accessible by a ladder at one end of the building.
The main body of the temple is one large apartment, entered through a
small transverse vestibule, the breadth of the temple, in which are
tall cylindrical praying-machines. The carving round the doors is very
beautiful, and they are gaudily painted and gilded. The northern temple
is quite plain: the middle one is simply painted red, and encircled
with a row of black heads, with goggle eyes and numerous teeth, on a
white ground; it is said to have been originally dedicated to the evil
spirits of the Lepcha creed. The southern, which contains the library,
is the largest and best, and is of an irregular square shape. The
inside walls and floors are plastered with clay, and painted with
allegorical representations of Boodh, etc. From the vestibule the
principal apartment is entered by broad folding-doors, studded with
circular copper bosses, and turning on iron hinges. It is lighted by
latticed windows, sometimes protected outside by a bamboo screen. Owing
to the great thickness of the walls (three to four feet), a very feeble
light is admitted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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