Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
[103] For a particular account of the images and decorations of these
temples, sea Dr. Campbell’s paper in “Bengal Asiatic Society’s
Trans.,” May, 1849. The principal object of veneration amongst the
Ningma or red sect of Boodhists in Sikkim and Bhotan is Gorucknath,
who is always represented sitting cross-legged, holding the dorje in
one hand, which is raised; whilst the left rests in the lap and holds
a cup with a jewel in it. The left arm supports a trident, whose staff
pierces three sculls (a symbol of Shiva), a rosary hangs round his
neck, and he wears a red mitre with a lunar crescent and sun in front.
[Illustration: Plan of the south temple]
The effect on entering these cold and gloomy temples is very
impressive; the Dugang in particular is exquisitely ornamented and
painted, and the vista from the vestibule to the principal idol, of
carved and coloured pillars and beams, is very picturesque. Within, the
general arrangement of the colours and gilding is felt to be harmonious
and pleasing, especially from the introduction of slender white streaks
between the contrasting masses of colour, as adopted in the Great
Exhibition building of 1851. It is also well worthy of remark that the
brightest colours are often used in broad masses, and when so, are
always arranged chromatically, in the sequence of the rainbow’s hues,
and are hence never displeasing to the eye. The hues, though bright,
are subdued by the imperfect light: the countenances of the images are
all calm, and their expression solemn. Whichever way you turn, the eye
is met by some beautiful specimen of colouring or carving, or some
object of veneration. The effect is much heightened by the incense of
juniper and sweet-smelling herbs which the priests burn on entering, by
their grave and decorous conduct, and by the feeling of respect that is
demanded by a religion which theoretically inculcates and adores virtue
in the abstract, and those only amongst men who practise virtue. To the
idol itself the Boodhist attaches no real importance; it is an object
of reverence, not of worship, and no virtue or attribute belong to it
_per se_; it is a symbol of the creed, and the adoration is paid to the
holy man whom it represents.
Beyond the temples are the chaits and mendongs, scattered without much
order; and I counted nearly twenty-five cbaits of the same form,[104]
between eight and thirty feet high. The largest is consecrated to the
memory of the Rajah’s eldest son, who, however, is not buried here. A
group of these structures is, as I have often remarked, extremely
picturesque, and those at Tassiding, from their number, variety, and
size, their commanding and romantic position, and their being
interspersed with weeping cypresses, are particularly so.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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