Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The view of the snowy range from this temple is one of the finest in
Sikkim; the eye surveying at one glance the vegetation of the Tropics
and the Poles. Deep in the valleys the river-beds are but 3000 feet
above the sea, and are choked with fig-trees, plantains, and palms; to
these succeed laurels and magnolias, and higher up still, oaks,
chesnuts, birches, etc.; there is, however, no marked line between the
limits of these two last forests, which form the prevailing arboreous
vegetation between 4000 and 10,000 feet, and give a lurid line to the
mountains. Pine forests succeed for 2000 feet higher, when they give
place to a skirting of rhododendron and berberry. Among these appear
black naked rocks, rising up in cliffs, between which are gulleys, down
which the snow now (on the 1st January) descended to 12,000 feet. The
mountain flanks are much more steep and rocky than those at similar
heights on the outer ranges, and cataracts are very numerous, and of
considerable height, though small in volume.
Pemiongchi is at the same elevation as Dorjiling, and the contrast
between the shoulders of 8000 to 10,000 feet on Kinchinjunga, and those
of equal height on Tendong and Tonglo, is very remarkable: looking at
the latter mountains from Dorjiling, the observer sees no rock,
waterfall, or pine, throughout their whole height; whereas the equally
wooded flanks of these inner ranges are rocky, streaked with
thread-like waterfalls, and bristling with silver firs.
This temple, the most ancient in Sikkim, is said to be 400 years old;
it stands on a paved platform, and is of the same form and general
character as those of Tassiding. Inside, it is most beautifully
decorated, especially the beams, columns, capitals and architraves, but
the designs are coarser than those of Tassiding.[105] The square end of
every beam in the roof is ornamented either with a lotus flower or with
a Tibetan character, in endless diversity of colour and form, and the
walls are completely covered with allegorical paintings of Lamas and
saints expounding or in contemplation, with glories round their heads,
mitred, and holding the dole and jewel.
[105] Mr. Hodgson informed me that many of the figures and emblems in
this temple are those of Tantrica Boodhism, including Shiva, Devi, and
other deities usually called Brahminical; Kakotak, or the snake king,
a figure terminating below in a snake, is also seen; with the tiger,
elephant, and curly-maned lion.
[Illustration: Interior of the temple at Pemiongchi]
The principal image is a large and hideous figure of Sakya-thoba, in a
recess under a blue silk canopy, contrasting with a calm figure of the
late Rajah, wearing a cap and coronet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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