Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
I left Yoksun on an expedition to Kinchinjunga on the 7th of January.
It was evident that at this season I could not attain any height; but I
was most anxious to reach the lower limit of that mass of perpetual
snow which descends in one continuous sweep from 28,000 to 15,000 feet,
and radiates from the summit of Kinchin, along every spur and shoulder
for ten to fifteen miles, towards each point of the compass.
The route lay for the first mile over the Yoksun flat, and then wound
along the almost precipitous east flank of the Ratong, 1000 feet above
its bed, leading through thick forest. It was often difficult, crossing
torrents by calms of bamboo, and leading up precipices by notched poles
and roots of trees. I wondered what could have induced the frequenting
of such a route to Nepal, when there were so many better ones over
Singalelah, till I found from my guide that he had habitually smuggled
salt over this pass to avoid the oppressive duty levelled by the Dewan
on all imports from Tibet by the eastern passes: he further told me
that it took five days to reach Yalloong in Nepal front Yoksun, on the
third of which the Kanglanamo pass is crossed, which is open from April
to November, but is always heavily snowed. Owing to this duty, and the
remoteness of the eastern passes, the people on the west side of the
Great Rungeet were compelled to pay an enormous sum for salt; and the
Lamas of Changachelling and Pemiongchi petitioned Dr. Campbell to use
his influence with the Nepal Court to have the Kanglanamo pass
re-opened, and the power of trading with the Tibetans of Wallanchoon,
Yangma, and Kambachen, restored to them: the pass having been closed
since the Nepalese war, to prevent the Sikkim people from kidnapping
children and slaves, as was alleged to be their custom.[108]
[108] An accusation in which there was probably some truth; for the
Sikkim Dingpun, who guided Dr. Campbell and myself to Mainom,
Tassiding, etc., since kidnapped, or caused to be abducted, a girl of
Brahmin parents, from the Mai valley of Nepal, a transaction which
cost him some 300 rupees. The Nepal Durbar was naturally furious, the
more so as the Dingpun had no caste, and was therefore abhorred by all
Brahmins. Restitution was demanded through Dr. Campbell, who caused
the incensed Dingpun to give up his paramour and her jewels. He vowed
vengeance against Dr. Campbell, and found means to gratify it, as I
shall hereafter show.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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