Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
We were received with great kindness by the villagers of Yoksun, who
had awaited our return with some anxiety, and on hearing of our
approach had collected large supplies of food; amongst other things
were tares (called by the Lepchas “Kullai”), yams (“Book”), and a bread
made by bruising together damp maize and rice into tough thin cakes
(“Ketch-ung tapha”). The Lamas of Doobdi were especially civil, having
a favour to ask, which was that I would intercede with Dr. Campbell to
procure the permission of the Nepalese to reopen the Kanglanamo pass,
and thus give some occupation to their herds of yaks, which were now
wandering idly about.
I botanized for two days on the Yoksun flat, searching for evidence of
lacustrine strata or moraines, being more than ever convinced by the
views I had obtained of this place from Mon Lepcha, that its uniformity
of surface was due to water action. It is certainly the most level area
of its size that I know of in Sikkim, though situated in one of the
deepest valleys, and surrounded on almost all sides by very steep
mountains; and it is far above the flat gravel terraces of the present
river-beds. I searched the surface of the flat for gravel beds in vain,
for though it abounds in depressions that must have formerly been
lake-beds, and are now marshes in the rainy season, these were all
floored with clay. Along the western edge, where the descent is very
steep for 1,800 feet to the Ratong, I found no traces of stratified
deposits, though the spurs which projected from it were often flattened
at top. The only existing lake has sloping clay banks, covered with
spongy vegetable mould; it has no permanent affluent or outlet, its
present drainage being subterranean, or more probably by evaporation;
but there is an old water-channel several feet above its level. It is
eighty to a hundred yards across, and nearly circular; its depth three
or four feet, increased to fifteen or sixteen in the rains; like all
similar pools in Sikkim, it contains little or no animal life at this
season, and I searched in vain for shells, insects, or frogs. All
around were great blocks of gneiss, some fully twelve feet square.
The situation of this lake is very romantic, buried in a tall forest of
oaks and laurels, and fringed by wild camellia shrubs; the latter are
not the leafy, deep green, large-blossomed plants of our greenhouses,
but twiggy bushes with small scattered leaves, and little yellowish
flowers like those of the tea-plant. The massive walls of a ruined
temple rise close to the water, which looks like the still moat of a
castle: beside it are some grand old funereal cypresses, with ragged
scattered branches below, where they struggle for light in the dense
forest, but raising their heads aloft as bright green pyramids.
[Illustration: Altar and song-boom at Yoksun]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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