Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Hence I ascended a very steep spur, through tropical vegetation, now
become so familiar to me that I used to count the number of species
belonging to the different large natural orders, as I went along. I
gathered only thirty-five ferns at these low elevations, in the same
space as produces from fifty to sixty in the more equable and humid
regions of 6000 feet; grasses on the other hand were much more
numerous. The view of the flat of Yoksun from Lungschung village,
opposite to it, and on about the same level, is curious; as is that of
the hamlet of Lathiang on the same side, which I have before noticed as
being placed on a very singular flat shelf above the Ratong, and is
overhung by rocks.
Ascending very steeply for several thousand feet, we reached a hollow
on the Catsuperri spur, beyond which the lake lies buried in a deep
forest. A Lama from the adjacent temple accompanied us, and I found my
people affecting great solemnity as they approached its sacred bounds;
they incessantly muttered “Om mani,” etc., kotowed to trees and stones,
and hung bits of rag on the bushes. A pretence of opposing our progress
was made by the priest, who of course wanted money; this I did not
appear to notice, and after a steep descent, we were soon on the shores
of what is, for Sikkim, a grand sheet of water, (6,040 feet above the
sea), without any apparent outlet: it may be from three to five hundred
yards across in the rains, but was much less now, and was bordered by a
broad marsh of bog moss (_Sphagnum_), in which were abundance of
_Azolla,_ colouring the waters red, and sedges. Along the banks were
bushes of _Rhododendron barbatum_ and _Berberis insignis,_[117] but the
mass of the vegetation was similar to that of Dorjiling.
[117] This magnificent new species has not been introduced into
England; it forms a large bush, with deep-green leaves seven inches
long, and bunches of yellow flowers.
We crossed the marsh to the edge of the lake by a rude paved way of
decaying logs, through which we often plunged up to our knees. The Lama
had come provided with a piece of bark, shaped like a boat, some
juniper incense and a match-box, with which he made a fire, and put it
in the boat, which he then launched on the lake as a votive offering to
the presiding deity. It was a dead calm, but the impetus he gave to the
bark shot it far across the lake, whose surface was soon covered with a
thick cloud of white smoke. Taking a rupee from me, the priest then
waved his arm aloft, and pretended to throw the money into the water,
singing snatches of prayers in Tibetan, and at times shrieking at the
top of his voice to the Dryad who claims these woods and waters as his
own. There was neither bird, beast, nor insect to be seen, and the
scenery was as impressive to me, as the effect of the simple service
was upon my people, who prayed with redoubled fervour, and hung more
rags on the bushes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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