Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Dorjiling station occupies a narrow ridge, which divides into two
spurs, descending steeply to the bed of the Great Rungeet river, up
whose course the eye is carried to the base of the great snowy
mountains. The ridge itself is very narrow at the top, along which most
of the houses are perched, while others occupy positions on its flanks,
where narrow _locations_ on the east, and broader ones on the west, are
cleared from wood. The valleys on either side are at least 6000 feet
deep, forest-clad to the bottom, with very few and small level spots,
and no absolute precipice; from their flanks project innumerable little
spurs, occupied by native clearings.
My route lay along the east flank, overhanging the valley of the Rungmo
river. Looking east, the amphitheatre of hills from the ridge I had
crossed was very fine; enclosing an area some four miles across and
4000 feet deep, clothed throughout with an impenetrable, dark forest:
there was not one clear patch except near the very bottom, where were
some scattered hamlets of two or three huts each. The rock is
everywhere near the surface, and the road has been formed by blasting
at very many places. A wooded slope descends suddenly from the edge of
the road, while, on the other hand, a bank rises abruptly to the top of
the ridge, alternately mossy, rocky, and clayey, and presenting a good
geological section, all the way along, of the nucleus of Dorjiling
spur, exposing broken masses of gneiss. As I descended, I came upon the
upper limit of the chesnut, a tree second in abundance to the oak;
gigantic, tall, and straight in the trunk.
I arrived at Dorjiling on the 16th of April; a showery, cold month at
this elevation. I was so fortunate as to find Mr. Charles Barnes
(brother of my friend at Colgong), the sole tenant of a long,
cottage-like building, divided off into pairs of apartments, which are
hired by visitors. It is usual for Europeans to bring a full
establishment of servants (with bedding, etc.) to such stations, but I
had not done so, having been told that there was a furnished hotel in
Dorjiling; and I was, therefore, not a little indebted to Mr. Barnes
for his kind invitation to join his mess. As he was an active
mountaineer, we enjoyed many excursions together, in the two months and
a half during which we were companions.
Dr. Campbell procured me several active native (Lepcha) lads as
collectors, at wages varying from eight to twenty shillings a month;
these either accompanied me on my excursions, or went by themselves
into the jungles to collect plants, which I occupied myself in drawing,
dissecting, and ticketing: while the preserving of them fell to the
Lepchas, who, after a little training, became, with constant
superintendence, good plant-driers. Even at this season (four weeks
before the setting in of the rains) the weather was very uncertain, so
that the papers had generally to be dried by the fire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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