Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
At 15,000 feet, the snow closed in on the path from all sides,
whether perpetual, glacial, or only the October fall, I could not
tell; the guide declared it to be perpetual henceforward, though now
deepened by the very heavy October fall; the path was cut some three
feet through it. Enormous boulders of gneiss cumbered the bottom of
the gorge, which gradually widened as we approached its summit; and
rugged masses of black and red gneiss and mica schist pierced the
snow, and stood out in dismal relief. For four miles continuously we
proceeded over snow; which was much honey-combed on the surface, and
treacherous from the icy streams it covered, into which we every now
and then stumbled; there was scarcely a trace of vegetation, and the
cold was excessive, except in the sun.
Towards the summit of the pass the snow lay very deep, and we
followed the course of a small stream which cut through it, the walls
of snow being breast-high on each side; the path was still frequented
by yaks, of which we overtook a small party going to Tibet, laden
with planks. All the party appeared alike overcome by lassitude,
shortness and difficulty of breathing, a sense of weight on the
stomach, giddiness and headache, with tightness across the temples.
Just below the summit was a complete bay of snow, girdled with two
sharp peaks of red baked schists and gneiss, strangely contorted, and
thrown up at all angles with no prevalent dip or strike, and
permeated with veins of granite. The top itself, or boundary between
Nepal and Tibet, is a low saddle between two rugged ridges of rock,
with a cairn built on it, adorned with bits of stick and rag covered
with Tibetan inscriptions. The view into Tibet was not at all
distant, and was entirely of snowy mountains, piled ridge over ridge;
three of these spurs must, it is said, be crossed before any descent
can be made to the Chomachoo river (as the Arun is called in Tibet),
on which is the frontier fort of the Tibetans, and which is reached
in two or three days. There is no plain or level ground of any kind
before reaching that river, of which the valley is said to be wide
and flat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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