Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Yangma convents stood at the mouth of a gorge which opened upon the
uppermost terrace; and the surface of the latter, here well covered
with grass, was furrowed into concentric radiating ridges, which were
very conspicuous from a distance. The buildings consisted of a
wretched collection of stone huts, painted red, enclosed by loose
stone dykes. Two shockingly dirty Lamas received me and conducted me
to the temple, which had very thick walls, but was undistinguishable
from the other buildings. A small door opened upon an apartment piled
full of old battered gongs, drums, scraps of silk hangings, red
cloth, broken praying-machines--relics much resembling those in the
lumber-room of a theatre. A ladder led from this dismal hole to the
upper story, which was entered by a handsomely carved and gilded
door: within, all was dark, except from a little lattice-window
covered with oil-paper. On one side was the library, a carved case,
with a hundred gilded pigeon-holes, each holding a real or sham book,
and each closed by a little square door, on which hung a bag full of
amulets. In the centre of the book-case was a recess, containing a
genuine Jos or Fo, graced with his Chinese attribute of very long
pendulous moustaches and beard, and totally wanting that air of
contemplative repose which the Tibetan Lamas give to their idols.
Banners were suspended around, with paintings of Lhassa, Teshoo
Loombo, and various incarnations of Boodh. The books were of the
usual Tibetan form, oblong squares of separate block-printed leaves
of paper, made in Nepal or Bhotan from the bark of a _Daphne,_ bound
together by silk cords, and placed between ornamented wooden boards.
On our way up the valley, we had passed some mendongs and chaits, the
latter very pretty stone structures, consisting of a cube, pyramid,
hemisphere, and cone placed on the top of one another, forming
together the tasteful combination which appears on the cover of
these volumes.
Beyond the convents the valley again contracted, and on crossing a
third, but much lower, moraine, a lake opened to view, surrounded by
flat terraces, and a broad gravelly shore, part of the lake being
dry. To the west, the cliffs were high, black and steep: to the east
a large lateral valley, filled at about 1500 feet up with blue
glaciers, led (as did the other lateral valleys) to the gleaming
snows of Nango; the moraine, too, here abutted on the east flank of
the Yangma valley, below the mouth of the lateral one. Much snow
(from the October fall) lay on the ground, and the cold was pinching
in the shade; still I could not help attempting to sketch this
wonderfully grand scene, especially as lakes in the Himalaya are
extremely rare: the present one was about a mile long, very shallow,
but broad, and as smooth as glass: it reminded me of the tarn in
Glencoe. The reflected lofty peak of Nango appeared as if frozen deep
down in its glassy bed, every snowy crest and ridge being rendered
with perfect precision.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account