Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The scenery, though dismal, (no juniper even attaining this
elevation,) was full of interest and grandeur, from the number and
variety of snowy peaks and glaciers all around the elevated horizon;
the ancient lake-beds, now green or brown with scanty vegetation, the
vast moraines, the ridges of glacial debris, the flat terraces,
marking, as it were with parallel roads, the bluff sides of the
mountains, the enormous boulders perched upon them, and strewed
everywhere around, the little Boodhist monuments of quaint,
picturesque shapes, decorated with poles and banners, the
many-coloured dresses of the people, the brilliant blue of the
cloudless heaven by day, the depth of its blackness by night,
heightened by the light of the stars, that blaze and twinkle with a
lustre unknown in less lofty regions: all these were subjects for
contemplation, rendered more impressive by the stillness of the
atmosphere, and the silence that reigned around. The village seemed
buried in repose throughout the day: the inhabitants had already
hybernated, their crops were stored, the curd made and dried, the
passes closed, the soil frozen, the winter's stock of fuel housed,
and the people had retired into the caverns of their half
subterranean houses, to sleep, spin wool, and think of Boodh, if of
anything at all, the dead, long winter through. The yaks alone can
find anything to do: so long as any vegetation remains they roam and
eat it, still yielding milk, which the women take morning and
evening, when their shrill whistle and cries are heard for a few
minutes, as they call the grunting animals. No other sounds, save the
harsh roar and hollow echo of the falling rock, glacier, or snow-bed,
disturbed the perfect silence of the day or night.* [Snow covers the
ground at Yangma from December till April, and the falls are said to
be very heavy, at times amounting to 12 feet in depth.]
I had taken three days' food to Yangma, and stayed there as long as
it lasted: the rest of my provisions I had left below the first
moraine, where a lateral valley leads east over the Nango pass to the
Kambachen valley, which lay on the route back to Sikkim.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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