Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
I was met by a messenger from Dr. Campbell who told me he was waiting
breakfast; so I left my party, and, accompanied by the Kajee and
Meepo, hurried down to the valley of the Rungoon (which flows east to
the Teesta), through a fine forest of tropical trees; passing the
villages of Broom* [On the top of the ridge above Broom, a tall stone
is erected by the side of the path, covered with private marks,
indicating the height of various individuals who are accustomed to
measure themselves thus; there was but one mark above 5 feet 7
inches, and that was 6 inches higher. It turned out to be Campbell's,
who had passed a few days before, and was thus proved to top the
natives of Sikkim by a long way.] and Lingo, to the spur of that
name; where I was met by a servant of the Sikkim Dewan's, with a pony
for my use. I stared at the animal, and felt inclined to ask what he
had to do here, where it was difficult enough to walk up and down
slippery slopes, amongst boulders of rock, heavy forest, and foaming
torrents; but I was little aware of what these beasts could
accomplish. The Tartar saddle was imported from Tibet, and certainly
a curiosity; once--but a long time ago--it must have been very
handsome; it was high-peaked, covered with shagreen and silvered
ornaments, wretchedly girthed, and with great stirrups attached to
short leathers. The bridle and head-gear were much too complicated
for description; there were good leather, raw hide, hair-rope, and
scarlet worsted all brought into use; the bit was the ordinary
Asiatic one, jointed, and with two rings. I mounted on one side, and
at once rolled over, saddle and all, to the other; the pony standing
quite still. I preferred walking; but Dr. Campbell had begged of me
to use the pony, as the Dewan had procured and sent it at great
trouble: I, however, had it led till I was close to Bhomsong, when I
was hoisted into the saddle and balanced on it, with my toes in the
stirrups and my knees up to my breast; twice, on the steep descent to
the river, my saddle and I were thrown on the pony's neck; in these
awkward emergencies I was assisted by a man on each side, who
supported my weight on my elbows: they seemed well accustomed to
easing mounted ponies down hill without giving the rider the trouble
of dismounting. Thus I entered Dr. Campbell's camp at Bhomsong, to
the pride and delight of my attendants; and received a hearty welcome
from my old friend, who covered me with congratulations on the
successful issue of a journey which, at this season, and under such
difficulties and discouragements, he had hardly thought feasible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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