Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The Dewan, trading in wares which we could supply better and cheaper,
naturally regarded us with repugnance, and did everything in his
power to thwart Dr. Campbell's attempts to open a friendly
communication between the Sikkim and English governments. The Rajah
owed everything to us, and was, I believe, really grateful; but he
was a mere cipher in the hands of his minister. The priests again,
while rejoicing in our proximity, were apathetic, and dreaded the
more active Dewan; and the people had long given evidence of their
confidence in the English. Under these circumstances it was in the
hope of gaining the Rajah's own ear, and representing to him the
advantages of promoting an intercourse with us, and the danger of
continuing to violate the terms of our treaty, that Dr. Campbell had
been authorised by government to seek an interview with His Highness.
At present our relations were singularly infelicitous. There was no
agent on the Sikkim Rajah's part to conduct business at Dorjiling,
and the Dewan insisted on sending a creature of his own, who had
before been dismissed for insolence. Malefactors who escaped into
Sikkim were protected, and our police interrupted in the discharge of
their duties; slavery was practised; and government communications
were detained for weeks and months under false pretences.
In his interviews with us the Dewan appeared to advantage: he was
fond of horses and shooting, and prided himself on his hospitality.
We gained much information from many conversations with him, during
which politics were never touched upon. Our queries naturally
referred to Tibet and its geography, especially its great feature the
Yarou Tsampoo river; this he assured us was the Burrampooter of
Assam, and that no one doubted it in that country. Lhassa he
described as a city in the bottom of a flat-floored valley,
surrounded by lofty snowy mountains: neither grapes, tea, silk, or
cotton are produced near it, but in the Tartchi province of Tibet,
one month's journey east of Lhassa, rice, and a coarse kind of tea
are both grown. Two months' journey north-east of Lhassa is Siling,
the well-known great commercial entrepot* [The entrepot is now
removed to Tang-Keou-Eul.--See Huc and Gabet.] in west China; and
there coarse silk is produced. All Tibet he described as mountainous,
and an inconceivably poor country: there are no plains, save flats in
the bottoms of the valleys, and the paths lead over lofty mountains.
Sometimes, when the inhabitants are obliged from famine to change
their habitations in winter, the old and feeble are frozen to death,
standing and resting their chins on their staves; remaining as
pillars of ice, to fall only when the thaw of the ensuing
spring commences.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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