Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
As a signal for departure white silk scarfs were thrown over our
shoulders, according to the established custom in Tibet, Sikkim, and
Bhotan; and presents were made to us of China silks, bricks of tea,
woollen cloths, yaks, ponies, and salt, with worked silk purses and
fans for Mrs. Campbell; after which we left. The whole scene was
novel and very curious. We had had no previous idea of the extreme
poverty of the Rajah, of his utter ignorance of the usages of
Oriental life, and of his not having anyone near to instruct him.
The neglect of our salutation, and the conversion of our presents
into tribute, did not arise from any ill-will: it was owing to the
craft of the Dewan in taking advantage of the Rajah's ignorance of
his own position and of good manners. Miserably poor, without any
retinue, taking no interest in what passes in his own kingdom,
subsisting on the plainest and coarsest food, passing his time in
effectually abstracting his mind from the consideration of earthly
things, and wrapt in contemplation, the Sikkim Rajah has arrived at
great sanctity, and is all but prepared for that absorption into the
essence of Boodh, which is the end and aim of all good Boodhists.
The mute conduct of his Court, who looked like attendants at an
inquisition, and the profound veneration expressed in every word and
gesture of those who did move and speak, recalled a Pekin reception.
His attendants treated him as a being of a very different nature from
themselves; and well might they do so, since they believe that he
will never die, but retire from the world only to re-appear under
some equally sainted form.
Though productive of no immediate good, our interview had a very
favourable effect on the Lamas and people, who had long wished it;
and the congratulations we received thereon during the remainder of
our stay in Sikkim were many and sincere. The Lamas we found
universally in high spirits; they having just effected the marriage
of the heir apparent, himself a Lama, said to possess much ability
and prudence, and hence being very obnoxious to the Dewan, who
vehemently opposed the marriage. As, however, the minister had
established his influence over the youngest, and estranged the Rajah
from his eldest son, and was moreover in a fair way for ruling Sikkim
himself, the Church rose in a body, procured a dispensation from
Lhassa for the marriage of a priest, and thus hoped to undermine the
influence of the violent and greedy stranger.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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