Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The night was magnificent, brilliant starlight, with a pale mist over
the mountains: the thermometer fell to 15.5 degrees at 7.30 p.m., and
one laid upon wood with its bulb freely exposed, sank to 7.5 degrees:
the snow sparkled with broad flakes of hoar-frost in the full moon,
which was so bright, that I recorded my observations by its light.
Owing to the extreme cold of radiation, I passed a very uncomfortable
night. The minimum thermometer fell to 1 degrees in shade.* [At
sunrise the temperature was 11.5 degrees; that of grass, cleared on
the previous day from snow, and exposed to the sky, 6.5 degrees; that
on wool, 2.2 degrees; and that on the surface of the snow, 0.7
degrees.] The sky was clear; and every rock, leaf, twig, blade of
grass, and the snow itself, were covered with broad rhomboidal plates
of hoar-frost, nearly one-third of an inch across: while the metal
scale of the thermometer instantaneously blistered my tongue. As the
sun rose, the light reflected from these myriads of facets had a
splendid effect.
Before sunrise the atmosphere was still, and all but cloudless.
To the south-east were visible the plains of India, at least 140
miles distant; where, as usual, horizontal layers of leaden purple
vapour obscured the horizon: behind these the sun rose majestically,
instantly dispersing them, while a thin haze spread over all the
intervening mountains, from its slanting beams reaching me through
otherwise imperceptible vapours: these, as the sun mounted higher,
again became invisible, though still giving that transparency to the
atmosphere and brilliant definition of the distances, so
characteristic of a damp, yet clear day.
Mon Lepcha commands a most extensive view of Sikkim, southward to
Dorjiling. At my feet lay the great and profound valley of the
Ratong, a dark gulf of vegetation. Looking northward, the eye
followed that river to the summit of Kinchinjunga (distant eighteen
miles), which fronts the beholder as Mont Blanc does when seen from
the mountains on the opposite side of the valley of Chamouni. To the
east are the immense precipices and glaciers of Pundim, and on the
west those of Kubra, forming great supporters to the stupendous
mountain between them. Mon Lepcha itself is a spur running south-east
from the Kubra shoulder: it is very open, and covered with rounded
hills for several miles further north, terminating in a conspicuous
conical black hummock* [This I have beau told is the true Kubra; and
the great snowy mountain behind it, which I here, in conformity with
the Dorjiling nomenclature, call Kubra, has no name, being considered
a part of Kinchin.] called Gubroo, of 15,000 feet elevation, which
presents a black cliff to the south.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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