Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Dorjiling station occupies a narrow ridge, which divides into two
spurs, descending steeply to the bed of the Great Rungeet river, up
whose course the eye is carried to the base of the great snowy
mountains. The ridge itself is very narrow at the top, along which
most of the houses are perched, while others occupy positions on its
flanks, where narrow locations on the east, and broader ones on the
west, are cleared from wood. The valleys on either side are at least
6000 feet deep, forest-clad to the bottom, with very few and small
level spots, and no absolute precipice; from their flanks project
innumerable little spurs, occupied by native clearings.
My route lay along the east flank, overhanging the valley of the
Rungmo river. Looking east, the amphitheatre of hills from the ridge
I had crossed was very fine; enclosing an area some four miles across
and 4000 feet deep, clothed throughout with an impenetrable, dark
forest: there was not one clear patch except near the very bottom,
where were some scattered hamlets of two or three huts each. The rock
is everywhere near the surface, and the road has been formed by
blasting at very many places. A wooded slope descends suddenly from
the edge of the road, while, on the other hand, a bank rises abruptly
to the top of the ridge, alternately mossy, rocky, and clayey, and
presenting a good geological section, all the way along, of the
nucleus of Dorjiling spur, exposing broken masses of gneiss. As I
descended, I came upon the upper limit of the chesnut, a tree second
in abundance to the oak; gigantic, tall, and straight in the trunk.
I arrived at Dorjiling on the 16th of April; a showery, cold month at
this elevation. I was so fortunate as to find Mr. Charles Barnes
(brother of my friend at Colgong), the sole tenant of a long,
cottage-like building, divided off into pairs of apartments, which
are hired by visitors. It is usual for Europeans to bring a full
establishment of servants (with bedding, etc.) to such stations, but
I had not done so, having been told that there was a furnished hotel
in Dorjiling; and I was, therefore, not a little indebted to Mr.
Barnes for his kind invitation to join his mess. As he was an active
mountaineer, we enjoyed many excursions together, in the two months
and a half during which we were companions.
Dr. Campbell procured me several active native (Lepcha) lads as
collectors, at wages varying from eight to twenty shillings a month;
these either accompanied me on my excursions, or went by themselves
into the jungles to collect plants, which I occupied myself in
drawing, dissecting, and ticketing: while the preserving of them fell
to the Lepchas, who, after a little training, became, with constant
superintendence, good plant-driers. Even at this season (four weeks
before the setting in of the rains) the weather was very uncertain,
so that the papers had generally to be dried by the fire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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