Himalayan Journals — Volume 2: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Volume 2: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
In about an hour Meepo and some of my people came up and asked for
Campbell, for whom the Tchebu Lama was waiting below: the Lama had
remained at Rungpo, endeavouring to put matters on a better footing
with the Amlah. Wishing to see the Tibet guard myself, I accompanied
the two remaining Tibetans down a steep valley with cliffs on either
hand, for several hundred feet, when I was overtaken by some Sikkim
sepoys in red jackets, who wanted to turn me back forcibly: I was at
a loss to understand their conduct, and appealed to the Tibetan
sepoys, who caused them to desist. About 1000 feet down I found
Campbell, with a body of about ninety Tibetans, a few of whom were
armed with matchlocks, and the rest with bows and arrows. They were
commanded by a Dingpun, a short swarthy man, with a flat-crowned cap
with floss-silk hanging all round, and a green glass button in front;
he wore a loose scarlet jacket, broadly edged with black velvet, and
having great brass buttons of the Indian naval uniform; his subaltern
was similarly dressed, but his buttons were those of the 44th Bengal
Infantry. The commandant having heard of our wish to go round by
Choombi, told Campbell that he had come purposely to inform him that
there was no road that way to Yakla; he was very polite, ordering his
party to rise and salute me when I arrived, and doing the same when
we both left.
On our return we were accompanied by the Dingpun of the Tibetans and
a few of his people, and were soon met by more Sikkim sepoys, who
said they were sent from the Durbar, to bring Campbell back to
transact business; they behaved very rudely, and when still half a
mile from the Sikkim frontier, jostled him and feigned to draw their
knives, and one of them pointed a spear-headed bow to his breast.
Campbell defended himself with a stick, and remonstrated with them on
their rudeness; and I, who had nothing but a barometer in my hand,
called up the Tibetans. The Dingpun came instantly, and driving the
Sikkim people forward, escorted us to the frontier, where he took an
inscribed board from the chait, and showing us the great vermilion
seal of the Emperor of China (or more probably of the Lhassan
authorities) on one side, and two small brown ones of the Sikkim
Rajah on the other; and giving us to understand that here his
jurisdiction ceased, he again saluted and left us.
On descending, I was surprised to meet the Singtam Soubah, whom I had
not seen since leaving Tungu; he was seated on a rock, and I remarked
that he looked ashy pale and haggard, and that he salaamed to me
only, and not to Campbell; and that Tchebu Lama, who was with him,
seemed very uncomfortable. The Soubah wanted Campbell to stop for a
conference, which at such a time, and in such a wind, was impossible,
so he followed us to Chumanako, where we proposed to pass the night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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