Himalayan Journals — Volume 2: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Volume 2: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
We descended rapidly for many miles through beautiful rocky woods,
with villages nestling amongst groves of banana and trellised
climbers; and from the brow of a hill looked down upon a slope
covered with vegetation and huts, which formed the mart of Chela, and
below which the Boga-panee flowed in a deep gorge. The view was a
very striking one: owing to the steepness of the valley below our
feet, the roofs alone of the cottages were visible, from which
ascended the sounds and smells of a dense native population, and to
which there appeared to be no way of descending. The opposite side
rose precipitously in lofty table-topped mountains, and the river was
studded with canoes.
The descent was fully 800 feet, on a slope averaging 25 degrees to 35
degrees. The cottages were placed close together, each within a
little bamboo enclosure, eight to ten yards deep; and no two were on
the same level. Each was built against a perpendicular wall which
supported a cutting in the bank behind; and a similar wall descended
in front of it, forming the back of the compartment in which the
cottage next below it was erected. The houses were often raised on
platforms, and some had balconies in front, which overhung the
cottage below. All were mere hovels of wattle or mud, with very
high-pitched roofs: stone tanks resembling fonts, urns, coffins, and
sarcophagi, were placed near the better houses, and blocks of stone
were scattered everywhere.
We descended from hovel to hovel, alternately along the gravelled
flat of each enclosure, and perpendicularly down steps cut in the
sandstone or let into the walls. I counted 800 houses from the river,
and there must be many more: the inhabitants are Bengalees and
Khasias, and perhaps amount to 3000 or 4000; but this is a very
vague estimate.
Illustration--CHELA VILLAGE.
We lodged in a curious house, consisting of one apartment, twenty
feet long, and five high, raised thirty feet upon bamboos: the walls
were of platted bamboo matting, fastened to strong wooden beams, and
one side opened on a balcony that overhung the river. The entrance
was an oval aperture reached by a ladder, and closed by folding-doors
that turned on wooden pivots. The roof was supported by tressels of
great thickness, and like the rest of the woodwork, was morticed, no
nails being used throughout the building. The floor was of split
bamboos laid side by side.
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