Historic buildings : $b as seen and described by great writers
History
Historic buildings : $b as seen and described by great writers
Architecture -- History; Art -- Study and teaching; Historic buildings
Ascending always, you meet on the left the Corner della Regina Palace,
so named on account of the Queen Conaro, whom Parisians know through
Halévy’s opera, _La Reine de Chypre_, in which Madame Stoltz
played such a fine _rôle_. I do not remember if the scenery of
MM. Séchan, Dieterle and Despléchin resembled it; it could have been
without sacrificing anything, because the architecture of Domenico
Rossi is of great elegance. The sumptuous palace of Queen Cornaro is
now a pawn shop, and the humble rags of misfortune and the jewels of
improvidence come to heap themselves here beneath the rich decorations
which should not fall into ruins: for to-day it does not suffice to be
beautiful, it is necessary to be useful.
The College of the Armenians, which is a short distance from here, is
an admirable building by Baldassare de Longhena, of a rich, solid and
imposing architecture. It is the ancient Pesaro Palace.
To the right there rises the Palazzo della Cà d’Oro, one of the most
charming of the Grand Canal. It belonged to Mademoiselle Taglioni, who
had it restored with the most intelligent care. It is all embroidered,
all denticulated, all cut out in a Grecian, Gothic and Barbarian style,
so fantastic, so light and so aërial that you would say it must have
been made for the nest of a sylph. Mademoiselle Taglioni took pity upon
these poor abandoned palaces. She rented several of them that attracted
her out of pure commiseration for their beauty; three or four were
pointed out to me upon which she had bestowed this charity of repairs.
Look at those blue and white stakes sprinkled with golden
_fleur-de-lis_; they will tell you that the ancient palace
Vendramini Calergi has become a quasi-royal habitation. It is the
dwelling of Her Highness the Duchesse de Berry, and certainly she is
better lodged than at the pavilion Marsan; for this palace, the most
beautiful one in Venice, is a masterpiece of architecture and its
carvings are of a marvellous delicacy. Nothing could be more beautiful
than the groups of children who are supporting shields upon the arches
of the windows. The interior is filled with precious marbles: you
admire above all two porphyry columns of such rare beauty that their
value would pay for the palace.
Although I have been a long time about it, I have not told all. I see
that I have not yet spoken of the Mocenigo palace, where the great
Byron lived; our gondolier however has grazed the marble stairway,
where with her hair flying in the wind, her foot in the water, in the
rain and tempest, the daughter of the people and mistress of Lord Byron
welcomed him upon his return with these tender words: “Great dog of the
Madonna, is it time to go to the Lido?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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