Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- History
Picturesque old quays surround the islands on the Seine. Quai de
l’Horloge, overlooked by the venerable clock-tower of the Palais de
Justice (_see_ p. 50), went in past days by the name Quai des Morfondus,
the quay of people chilled by cold river mists and blasting winds. When
opticians made that river-bank their special quarter, it became Quai des
Lunettes. Lesage, author of _Gil Blas_, lived here in 1715, at the
Soleil d’Or. No. 41, where dwelt the engraver Philipon, Mme Roland’s
father, is known as the house of Madame Roland, for it was the home of
her girlhood. No. 17 dates from Louis XIII.
Quai des Orfèvres, the goldsmith’s quay, dating from the end of the
sixteenth and first years of the seventeenth centuries, lost its most
ancient, most picturesque structures by the enlarging of the Palais de
Justice in recent years. In ancient days a Roman wall passed here. At
No. 20 of the Rue de Harlay, opening out of it, we see part of an
ancient archway. At No. 2 a Louis XIII house. Nos. 52-54 on the _quai_
date from 1603, the latter once the firm of jewellers implicated in the
_affaire du collier_. At No. 58 lived Strass, the inventor of the
simili-diamonds.
Quai de la Cité was built in 1785, on the site of the ancient
_port-aux-œufs_, remains of which were unearthed in making the
metropolitan railway, a few years ago. Along these banks we see the
Paris bird shops; the Marché-aux-Oiseaux is held here. And close by is
the Marché-aux-Fleurs. Merovingian remains were found beneath the
surface on this part of the quay in 1906. Thick, strong walls believed
to have been built by Dagobert, inscriptions, capitals, tombstones--the
remains of oldest Paris.
Quai de l’Archevêché records the existence there of the archbishop’s
palace built in 1697 by Cardinal de Noailles, pillaged and razed to the
ground in 1831. The sacristy and presbytery we see there now are modern.
This is the quay of the Paris Morgue, the Dead-house, brought here in
1864 from the Marché-Neuf, which had been its site since 1804, when it
was removed from le Grand Châtelet. For years past we have been told it
is “soon” to be again removed, taken to a remoter corner of the city.
The Square de l’Archevêché, laid out in 1837, was in olden days a
stretch of waste land known as the “Motte aux Papelards,” the playground
of the Cathedral Staff. Boileau’s Paris home was here in a street long
swept away. His country-house, as we know, was at Auteuil (_see_ p.
275). In 1870 the square was turned for the time into an artillery
ground.
Quai de Bourbon on the Île St. Louis dates from 1614. Every house along
its line is interesting, of seventeenth-century date for the most part.
At No. 3, we see a shop of the days and style Louis XV. Nos. 13-15,
hôtel de Charron, where in modern times Meissonnier had his studio. We
see fine doors and doorways, courts, staircases, balustrades, at every
house. No. 29 was the home of Roualle de Boisgelon. Philippe de
Champaigne lived for a time at No. 45.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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