Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- History
The church St-Sulpice, with its very characteristic façade, the work of
Servandoni, was begun in the middle of the seventeenth century on the
site of a thirteenth-century church dedicated to St. Pierre, but was not
finished till nearly a century later. Servandoni’s towers were
disapproved of; one was demolished and rebuilt by Chalgrin. The other
remains as Servandoni designed it. Entering the church we see its walls
covered with frescoes and paintings; they are all by celebrated artists.
Those in the lady-chapel by Van Loo, the rest by Delacroix and other
masters of modern times. The high altar is unusually large. The shells
for holy water were a gift from the Republic of Venice to François I.
The pulpit with its carved figures was given by Richelieu. In the
Chapelle-des-Étudiants is an organ that belonged to Marie-Antoinette for
the use of her young son, and has been played by Glück and Mozart. A
sacrilegious fête was held in the church in Revolution days and a great
banquet given in honour of Napoléon. The grand organ is very fine, its
woodwork designed by Chalgrin. The services are noted for the beauty of
their music. The _place_ dates from 1800, built on the site of the
ancient seminary “des Sulpiciens,” razed by Napoléon. The present
Séminaire, no longer a seminary--forfeited to the State in 1906--was
built in 1820-25. The immense fountain was put up there nearly half a
century later, an old smaller one taken away.
Almost parallel with Rue Bonaparte the old Rue de Seine stretches from
the banks of the river to Rue St-Sulpice. It dates in its most ancient
part from 1250 as the Pré-aux-Clercs road. No. 1 is a dependency of the
Institute. No. 6 is on the site of a _palais_ built by la Reine Margot
on leaving l’hôtel de Sens, some traces of which are seen among the
buildings on the spot, and part of the Queen’s gardens. No. 10 was
formerly the Art School of Rosa Bonheur. At No. 12 are vestiges of
l’hôtel de la Roche-Guyon and Turenne (1620). Nos. 41, 42, 57, 56, 101
show interesting seventeenth-century features. Rue Mazarine is another
parallel street--a street of ancient houses. No. 12 is notable as the
site of the Jeu de Paume, a tennis-court, where in 1643 Molière set up
his Illustre théâtre. No. 30, hôtel des Pompes, where died in 1723 the
founder of the Paris Fire Brigade; a remarkable man he ... an actor in
Molière’s troup, the father of thirty-two children! On the site of No.
42 stood once another tennis-court, which became the théâtre Guénégaud,
where the first attempts at Opera were made.
Rue de Nesle, till the middle of last century Rue d’Anjou-Dauphine,
stretches across the site of part of the famous hôtel de Nesle; a
subterranean passage formerly ran beneath it. The interesting house No.
8 is one of the many said to be a palace of la Reine Blanche, the mother
of St. Louis. There were, however, as a matter of fact, many “Reines
Blanches” in France in olden times, for royal French widows wore white,
not black for mourning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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