The foreign element in Provincetown is not all Portuguese. There is a
sprinkling of many nationalities, especially Irish, and, more numerous
yet, English and Scotch from the British provinces, while sailor-feet
from all over the globe tread the long plank-walk of Front Street. This
famous walk was built, after much wrangling, from the town’s share of
the Surplus Revenue distributed by Andrew Jackson, and the story goes
that the more stiff-necked opponents of this extravagance refused their
lifetimes long to step upon the planks, and plodded indignantly through
the sandy middle of the road. Upon this chief thoroughfare stand
several churches, looking seaward. Sailors in these waters used to steer
by the meeting-house steeples, which are frequent all along the Cape.
Some of those early churches now struggle on with meagre congregations,
and a few are abandoned, the wind whistling through the empty belfries.
Provincetown has a record of ancient strife between the Orthodox and the
Methodists. The established sect resented the intrusion of the new
doctrine to such a degree that they made a bonfire of the timber
designed for the Methodist building. The heretics effectively retaliated
by securing the key to the Orthodox meeting-house, locking out the
astonished owners, and taking permanent possession, triumphantly singing
Methodist hymns to the Orthodox bass-viol. It was thirty-two years
before the discomfited Orthodox rallied sufficiently to build themselves
another church.
Journeying from Provincetown, “perched out on a crest of alluvial sand,”
up the wrist of the Cape, one sees the land a-making. At first the loose
sand drifts like snow. Then the coarse marsh-grasses begin to bind and
hold it, low bushes mat their roots about it, and planted tracts of
pitch-pine give the shifting waste a real stability. The Pilgrims
found, they said,--but perhaps there was a Canaan dazzle in their
eyes,--their landing-place well wooded and the soil “a spit’s depth,
excellent black earth.” But now all sods and garden-ground must be
brought from a distance, and a mulberry or a sycamore, even the most
stunted apple-tree that squats and cowers from the wind, is a proud
possession. When President Dwight of Yale rode through Truro into
Provincetown a century ago, he was amazed at the sterility and bleak
desolation of the landscape, half hidden as it was by “the tempestuous
tossing of the clouds of sand.” He was told that the inhabitants were
required by law to plant every April bunches of beach-grass to keep the
sand from blowing. The national government, stirred by the danger to the
harbor, afterwards took the matter in hand. Between 1826 and 1838,
twenty-eight thousand dollars were expended in an attempt to strengthen
the harbor shores by beach-grass. Of late Massachusetts has become
aroused to the desolate condition of her Province Lands, and is making a
determined effort to redeem them by the planting of trees and by other
restorative measures.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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