Wellfleet, which drew off from Eastham in 1763, has also fallen on evil
days. Perhaps the fishermen have overreached themselves with the greedy
seines. There is high controversy on this point between line-fishers and
weir-fishers, but the fact stands that fish are growing scarce.
Wellfleet had once her hundred vessels at the Banks, her
whaling-schooners, built in her own yards from her own timber, and beds
of oysters much prized by city palates. There was a time when forty or
fifty sail were busy every season transporting Wellfleet shell-fish to
Boston. “As happy as a clam” might then have been the device of
Wellfleet heraldry. But suddenly the oyster died and, although the beds
have been planted anew, the ancient fame has not been fully regained. A
town, too, many of whose citizens spent more than half their lives on
shipboard, was sure to suffer from our wars, peculiarly disastrous to
seafaring pursuits. Early in the Revolution, Wellfleet was constrained
to petition for an abatement of her war-tax, stating that her
whale-fishery, by which nine tenths of her people lived, was entirely
shut off by British gunboats, and that the shell-fish industries, on
which the remaining tenth depended, was equally at a standstill. In this
distress, as again in the Civil War, Cape Cod sailors took to
privateering and made a memorable record. Wellfleet, like Truro, has
lessened more than one half in population since 1850, but her shell
roads are better than the sand-ruts of her neighbor, and bicyclists and
other summer visitors are beginning to find her out. She has her own
melancholy charm of barrenness and desolation quite as truly as she has
her characteristic dainties of quahaug pie and fried-quahaug cakes. The
place abounds in dim old stories, from the colonial legend of the
minister’s deformed child, done to death by a dose from its father’s
hand, that child whose misshapen little ghost still flits, on moonlight
nights, about a certain rosebush, to the many-versioned tale of the
buccaneer, ever and anon seen prowling about that point on the Back Side
where Sam Bellamy’s pirate-ship was cast away, and stooping to gather
the coins flung up to him by the skeleton hands of his drowned
shipmates. A volume would not suffice for the stories of these Cape
towns. Their very calendar is kept by storms: as the Magee storm of
December, 1778, when the government brig _General Arnold_, commanded by
Captain James Magee, went down; or the Mason and Slidell storm of 1862,
when the Southern emissaries were brought from Fort Warren to
Provincetown, and there, amidst the protest of the elements, yielded up
to the British steamer _Rinaldo_; or the pitiless October gale of 1841,
when from Truro alone forty-seven men were swallowed by the sea.
[Illustration: BISHOP AND CLERK LIGHT, HYANNIS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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