These three initial settlements on the Cape were recognized as townships
in 1639. From the outset, the difference in their locations imposed upon
them different tasks. Yarmouth, the elbow town of the Cape, bore the
brunt of wind and wave; Sandwich kept the border, notably in King
Philip’s War, when she guarded the faithful Cape Indians from temptation
and received for safe harborage English refugees from the ravaged
districts; and Barnstable, the aristocratic sister of the group, made
traditions, set examples and produced the Otis family. With Old
Yarmouth, the Cape widens. No longer do householders, as at Truro, own
land in strips from shore to shore. The soil, too, deepens, and the cows
need not with hungry noses brush away the drifted sand to find the
grass. On the Back Side is no marked change in aspect. Still pine grove
after pine grove adds flavor to the salt air, and where the carpet of
needles is trodden through, gleam patches of white sand. The strange
reappearance of the _Somerset_ is out-miracled in Old Ship Harbor,
where, in 1863, long after the significance of the name had been
forgotten, the hull of the _Sparrow-Hawk_, wrecked there in 1626, on her
way from London to Virginia, rose again to view. This portion of the
Cape is in excellent repute with pleasure-seekers, and the seaside
cottage is ubiquitous, especially in beautiful Chatham, whose
ever-changing shore takes the wildest raging of the surf. Harwich, which
has gone through the regular stages of whaling, codding,
mackerel-fishing and salt-making, cultivates in turn the summer boarder,
but somewhat quizzically. Retired sea-captains are not easily overawed
even by golf-sticks, and retired sea-captains, in Harwich, are as thick
as cranberries. Snuffing the brine, they pace their porches like so many
quarter-decks and delight their auditors and themselves with marvellous
recitals. The Cape has not proved friendly to manufactures in general.
Salt-works and glass-works have come to naught,--but the spinning of
sea-yarns is a perennial industry.
[Illustration: RUINS OF THE CHATHAM LIGHT.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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