All the way from Provincetown to Falmouth
[Illustration: THE VILLAGE GREEN.]
are certain briny signals,--a ship’s figure-head, marble steps whose
stone was washed ashore as wreckage, lobster-pots, herring-nets,
conch-shells set on lintels, a discontented polar bear pacing a
stout-paled yard, ruffling cockatoos, boats converted into flower-boxes,
whales’ vertebræ displayed for ornament, garden-beds marked out with
scallop-shells, everywhere the ship-shape look, the sailor’s handy rig,
and everywhere the codfish used for weathercocks. In Barnstable
court-house a mammoth cod is suspended from the ceiling. Vistas of ocean
outlook, too, from under arches of green branches, flash upon the eye,
the salty flavor is not lost in woodland fragrances, and the rolling
hills and wavy pastures take their model from the sea.
Of the old-timey features of the Cape, no one is more impressive than
the witch-like windmill with its peaked cap, outspread arms and slanting
broomstick, reminding us that the Pilgrims came from Holland. Some of
these antique mills have been bought by summer residents and moved to
their estates for curiosities, but the one at Orleans was in use as late
as 1892, taking its profitable toll of two quarts out of the bushel.
[Illustration: SHIRICK’S POND, FALMOUTH.]
The general history of Falmouth but repeats the story of her sister
towns. The first settlers are believed to have come in boats from
Barnstable, in 1660. They encamped for the night among the flags of
Consider Hatch’s Pond, where a child was born and, in recognition of the
rushes that sang his earliest lullaby, named Moses. The town was duly
incorporated in 1686, next after Eastham, and has steadfastly stood for
piety, wisdom and patriotism. She admitted the Quakers, and if one of
her deacons held a negro slave, as colonial deacons often did, poor
Cuffee was at least brought to the communion table. It is Truro that
contains “Pomp’s Lot,” where the stolen African, with loaf of bread and
jug of water at his feet for sustenance on his new journey, escaped
slavery by hanging. As for learning, it was Sandwich Academy which the
Cape towns held in awe, but our Falmouth men, like the rest, half
sailor, half farmer and all theologian, had a genuine culture, born of
keen-eyed voyaging and of lonely thought, that kept the air about them
tingling with intelligence. When it comes to war stories, if
Provincetown, from her end of the Cape, can tell of her boy in blue that
went down with the _Cumberland_,
[Illustration: THE WHALE-SHIP “COMMODORE MORRIS” AND THE FALMOUTH
CAPTAINS WHO SAILED IN HER.]
and her naval captain at Manila, Falmouth can recall that twice she was
bombarded by the British and twice defended by the valor of her sons,
and when the Civil War broke out, with the larger share of her
able-bodied men at sea, she yet sent more than her quota of soldiers to
the front.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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