Then your pilot will guide you to the fishing villages whence Spanish
pescadores once put out in their shallops to harvest the bay for the
governor and his Court. Later came the American whalers before the tide of
commerce turned the sperm whale and the finback to remoter waters.
Occasionally yet comes a sulphurbottom following the tides of the Kuro
Sirva, and then there is vast excitement in Pescadero Bay.
[Illustration ANCIENT CYPRESS AT CYPRESS POINT.]
Now through the groves of giant pines at the edge of the sea where the
western Chautauqua meets, and then to Cypress Point, whose trees, the guide
informs you loftily, are identical with the cedars of Lebanon, and you are
nearing the resting-place of Junípero.
[Illustration STATUE OF JUNIPERO SERRA.]
With the adjournment of the convention that met at Monterey in response to
the proclamation of the military governor to frame a State, the capital
passed from that historic town, and for many years the grave of its founder
was forgotten. The rush to the gold mines trod underfoot the old-time
glories of Monterey. From a throbbing capital it became for a while a
deserted village. Lichens grew in its streets and the roofs of its houses
crumbled.
As for the Mission at Carmel, rust muffled its chimes; Spanish moss covered
its tumbling pilasters; its sanctuary was choked with wild mustard; storms
blew through the fallen roof. The lizard alone kept watch of the ruin.
But when the new civilization had built its cities and established its
railways and there was time again to cultivate the arts of rest, romance
turned once more to Monterey. Capital saw in its ruins an opportunity for
gain. In its environs Stevenson beheld a paradise for poets, and Monterey
became a field of dalliance, a mecca for millionaires at play, an unfailing
inspiration to every spirit in a mood to dream.
Junípero at Monterey initiated the activities that held the coast against
envious nations, and now to his tomb comes the tide of travel. A few years
ago Mrs. Leland Stanford, representing patriotic citizens and students whom
the eloquent writings of the historian Hittell had inspired to veneration
of Junípero, restored the ruined Mission, so that now his tomb is marked by
no traces of neglect, and there with the Carmel surf chanting his eternal
requiem, side by side with the comrades he loved and the governors he and
his followers installed, this unconquerable friar who trudged, lamely, ten
thousand miles in the name of God, establishing the outposts of
Christianity and opening the way for the Democracy to come, is receiving
the tardy homage his genius and character deserve.
He was indeed one of Emerson's men who "pin continents together."
[Illustration OLD MEXICAN CUSTOM-HOUSE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account