If we did not possess the clear topographical indications given
by Herodotus, it would be almost impossible to comprehend
the memorable event here before us; for the configuration of
the coast, the course of the rivers, and the general local
phenomena, have now so entirely changed, that modern travellers
rather mislead than assist. In the interior of the Maliac
gulf, three or four miles of new land have been formed by the
gradual accumulation of river deposit, so that the gulf itself
is of much less extent, and the mountain bordering the gate of
Thermopylæ is not now near to the sea. The river Spercheius has
materially altered its course; instead of flowing into the sea
in an easterly direction considerably north of Thermopylæ, as
it did in the time of Herodotus, it has been diverted southward
in the lower part of its course, with many windings, so as to
reach the sea much south of the pass: while the rivers Dyras,
Melas, and Asôpus, which in the time of Herodotus all reached the
sea separately between the mouth of Spercheius and Thermopylæ,
now do not reach the sea at all, but fall into the Spercheius.
Moreover, the perpetual flow of the thermal springs has tended to
accumulate deposit and to raise the level of the soil generally
throughout the pass. Herodotus seems to consider the road between
the two gates of Thermopylæ as bearing north and south, whereas
it would bear more nearly east and west. He knows nothing of the
appellation of Callidromus, applied by Livy and Strabo to an
undefined portion of the eastern ridge of Œta.
Respecting the past and present features of Thermopylæ, see the
valuable observations of Colonel Leake, Travels in Northern
Greece, vol. ii, ch. x, pp. 7-40; Gell, Itinerary of Greece, p.
239; Kruse, Hellas, vol. iii, ch. x, p. 129. Dr. Clarke observes:
“The hot springs issue principally from two mouths at the foot of
the limestone precipices of Œta, upon the left of the causeway,
which here passes close under the mountain, and on this part
of it scarcely admits two horsemen abreast of each other, the
morass on the right, between the causeway and the sea, being so
dangerous, that we were very near being buried, with our horses,
by our imprudence in venturing a few paces into it from the paved
road.” (Clarke’s Travels, vol. iv, ch. viii, p. 247.)
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