A few observations remain to be made respecting the dates of the patterns
of Alençon point, which, like those of other laces, will be found to
correspond with the architectural style of decoration of the period. The
"corbeilles de mariage" preserved in old families and contemporary
portraits are our surest guides.
In the eighteenth century the réseau ground was introduced, and soon became
universally adopted. After carefully examining the engravings of the time,
the collection of historical portraits at Versailles and other galleries,
we find no traces of Point d'Alençon with the réseau or network ground in
the time of Louis XIV. The laces are all of the Venetian character, à
bride, and Colbert himself is depicted in a cravat of Italian design;
while, on the other hand, the daughters of Louis XV. (Mesdames de France)
and the "Filles du Régent" all wear rich points of Alençon and
Argentan.[565] The earlier patterns of the eighteenth century are flowery
and undulating[566] (Fig. 91), scarcely {199}begun, never ending, into
which haphazard are introduced patterns of a finer ground, much as the
medallions of Boucher or Vanloo were inserted in the gilded panellings of a
room. Twined around them appear a variety of _jours_, filled up with
patterns of endless variety, the whole wreathed and garlanded like the
decoration of a theatre. Such was the taste of the day. "Après moi le
déluge"; and the precept of the favourite was carried out in the style of
design: an _insouciance_ and _laisser-aller_ typical of a people regardless
of the morrow.
Towards the latter end of the reign a change came over the national taste.
It appears in the architecture and domestic decoration. As the cabriole
legs of the chairs are replaced by the "pieds de daim," so the running
patterns of the lace give place to compact and more stiff designs. The
flowers are rigid and angular, of the style called _bizarre_, of almost
conventional form. With Louis XVI. began the ground _semé_ with compact
little bouquets, all intermixed with small patterns, spots (_pois_),
fleurons, rosettes, and tears (_larmes_) (Fig. 90), which towards the end
of the century entirely expel the bouquets from the ground. The semés
continued during the Empire.
This point came into the highest favour again during the Second Empire.
Costly orders for trousseaux were given not only in France, but from Russia
and other countries. One amounted to 150,000 francs (£6,000)--flounce,
lappets and trimmings for the body, pocket-handkerchief, fan, parasol, all
_en suite_, and, moreover, there were a certain number of metres of
_aunage_, or border lace, for the layette. The making of point d'Alençon
being so slow, it was impossible ever to execute it "to order" for this
purpose.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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