But, apart from historic recollections, Argentan is celebrated for its
point lace. A "bureau" for points de France was established at Argentan at
the same time as the bureau at Alençon (1665), and was also under the
direction of Madame Raffy. In a letter dated November 23rd, 1665, she
writes to Colbert: "Je suis très satisfaite de la publication à son de
trompe d'un arrêt qui ordonne aux ouvrières d'Argentan de travailler
uniquement pour la bureau de la manufacture royale."
PLATE LVI.
[Illustration: ]
[Illustration: POINT D'ARGENTAN.--Modern reproduction at Burano of the
flounce now belonging to the Crown of Italy, said formerly to have belonged
to Paul de Gondy, Cardinal de Retz 1614-79. This is evidently wrong, as the
design and execution is of fifty years later date, but it is a fine
specimen of an ecclesiastical flounce. Height, 24 in.
Photo by Burano School.]
_Between pages 202 and 203._
{203}Point d'Argentan has been thought to be especially distinguished by
its hexagonally-arranged brides; but this has also been noticed as a
peculiarity of certain Venetian point laces. The bride ground, to which we
have before alluded in the notice of Alençon, was of very elaborate
construction, and consists of a large six-sided mesh, worked over with the
buttonhole stitch. It was always printed on the parchment pattern, and the
upper angle of the hexagon is pricked. After the hexagon is formed, by
passing the needle and thread round the pins in a way too complicated to be
worth explaining, the six sides are worked over with seven or eight
buttonhole stitches in each side. The bride ground was consequently very
strong. It was much affected in France; the réseau was more preferred
abroad.[570] At the present time, it is usual to consider the point
d'Alençon as a lace with a fine réseau, the mesh of which is more square
than hexagonal in form, worked by looped stitches across horizontal lines
of thread, with the flower or ornament worked in fine point stitches,
closely resembling the gimp or ornament in the point de Venise à réseau,
and outlined by a cordonnet of the finest buttonhole stitches worked over a
horsehair or threads, while point d'Argentan is a lace with similar work as
regards flower, ornament, and cordonnet, but with a hexagonal bride ground,
each side of the hexagon being of the finest buttonhole stitchings.
Regarding the date of the introduction of the réseau, the large hexagonal
"grande bride" would appear to follow from the points de Venise, Argentan
being named before Alençon à réseau. Madame Despierres, however, is of
opinion that Argentan simplified the usual réseau by adopting the bride
tortillé (_i.e._, twisting the threads round each mesh instead of the more
arduous buttonhole stitching). Alençon would then {204}have copied back the
petites brides of small hexagonal twisted or buttonholed meshes in Louis
XVI.'s reign. To this again succeeded the looped réseau of very thick
thread.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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