{211}Savary, who wrote in 1726, mentions how, in the Château de Madrid,
there had long existed a manufacture of points de France.[584] A second
fabric was established by the Comte de Marsan,[585] in Paris, towards the
end of the same century. Having brought over from Brussels his nurse, named
Dumont, with her four daughters, she asked him, as a reward for the care
she had bestowed upon him in his infancy, to obtain for her the privilege
of setting up in Paris a manufactory of point de France. Colbert granted
the request: Dumont was established in the Faubourg St. Antoine--classic
land of embroidery from early times--cited in the "Révolte des Passemens,"
"Telle Broderie qui n'avoit jamais esté plus loin que du Faubourg S.
Antoine au Louvre." A "cent Suisse" of the king's was appointed as guard
before the door of her house. In a short time Dumont had collected more
than 200 girls, among whom were several of good birth, and made beautiful
lace called point de France. Her fabric was next transferred to Rue Saint
Sauveur, and subsequently to the Hôtel Saint-Chaumont, near the Porte St.
Denis. Dumont afterwards went to Portugal, leaving her fabric under the
direction of Mademoiselle de Marsan. But, adds the historian, as fashion
and taste often change in France, people became tired of this point. It
proved difficult to wash; the flowers had to be raised each time it was
cleaned; it was thick and unbecoming to the face. Points d'Espagne were now
made instead, with small flowers, which, being very fine, was more suitable
for a lady's dress. Lastly, the taste for Mechlin lace coming in, the
manufacture of Dumont was entirely given up.[586]
In the time of Louis XIV. the commerce of lace was distributed in different
localities of Paris, as we learn from the "Livre Commode"[587] already
quoted. The gold laces, forming of themselves a special commerce, had their
shops in the "rue des Bourdonnais (in which silk laces were especially
sold) and the rue Sainte-Honoré, entre la place aux Chats et les piliers
des Halles," while the rue Bétizy retained for itself the spécialité of
selling "points et dentelles."
The gold and silver laces of Paris, commonly known as points
d'Espagne,[588] often embellished with pearls and other {212}ornaments,
were for years renowned throughout all Europe; and, until the revocation of
the Edict of Nantes, an object of great commerce to France. Its importance
is shown by the sumptuary edicts of the seventeenth century forbidding its
use, and also by its mention in the _Révolte des Passemens_. It was made on
the pillow. Much was exported to Spain and the Indies. How those exiled
workmen were received by the Protestant princes of Europe, and allowed to
establish themselves in their dominions, to the loss of France and the
enrichment of the lands of their adoption, will be told in due time, when
we touch on the lace manufactures of Holland and Germany. (Plate LVIII.)
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