The Emperor Charles V. is said, however, to have first introduced the lace
manufacture into Arras.[644] Arras was one of the seats of Colbert's
manufactures, probably of the Flemish bobbin lace. It flourished in the
eighteenth century, when, writes Arthur Young, in 1788, were made "coarse
thread laces, which find a good market in England. The lace-workers earn
from 12 to 15 sous." Peuchet corroborates this statement. "Arras," he
says, {240}"fait beaucoup de mignonette et entoilage, dont on consomme
boucoup en Angleterre." The fabric of Arras attained its climax during the
Empire (1804 to 1812), since which period it has declined. In 1851 there
were 8,000 lace-makers in a radius of eight miles round the city, their
salary not exceeding 65 centimes a day. In 1881, however, the trade had
enormously decreased, only one house making a speciality of the old
patterns. The old Arras laces are now no more.
[Illustration: Fig. 111.
ARRAS.--Modern.]
There is little, or, indeed, no variety in the pattern of Arras lace; for
years it produced the same style and design. As a consequence of this, the
lace-makers, from always executing the same pattern, acquired great
rapidity. Though not so fine as that of Lille, the lace of Arras has three
good qualities: it is very strong, firm to the touch, and perfectly white;
hence the great demand for both home and foreign consumption, no other lace
having this triple merit at so reasonable a price (Fig. 111).
The gold lace of Arras appears also to have had a reputation. We find among
the coronation expenses of George I. a charge for 354 yards of Arras lace
"atrebaticæ lacinæ."[645]
{241}BAILLEUL (DÉP. DU NORD).
As already mentioned, up to 1790 the "vraie Valenciennes" was only made in
the city of that name. The same lace manufactured at Lille, Bergues,
Bailleul, Avesnes, Cassel, Armentières, as well as that of Belgium, was
called "Fausses Valenciennes." "Armentières et Bailleul ne font que de la
Valencienne fausse, dans tous les prix," writes Peuchet. "On nomme," states
another author,[646] "fausses Valenciennes la dentelle de même espèce,
inférieure en qualité, fabriquée moins serrée, dont le dessin est moins
recherché et le toilé des fleurs moins marqué." Of such is the lace of
Bailleul,[647] whose manufacture is the most ancient and most important,
extending to Hazebrouck, Bergues, Cassel, and the surrounding
villages.[648]
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