There are differences of opinion as to the exact character of Sedan lace.
M. Séguin considers it to have been a lace inferior in design and
workmanship to point de Venise à réseau. A single thread intervenes between
the pattern and the réseau, instead of the overcast cordonnet of Alençon,
and in other respects it resembles late Venetian needlepoint. Certain
authorities in Brussels, again, claim the point de Sedan as a needle-made
production of Brabant or Liège. M. Lefébure, on the other hand, considers
it as an important variety of Alençon. "The floral devices in points de
Sedan, which are somewhat large and heavy in execution, spring from bold
scroll forms, and in between them are big meshes of the 'grande maille
picotée' of the point de France. Instead of an even and slightly raised
stitching along their contours, these big flowers are accentuated here and
there in well chosen parts by raised stitching, worked somewhat {255}with
the effect of vigorous touches of rather forced high lights in a picture.
These recurrent little mounds of relief, as they may be called, are
frequently introduced with admirable artistic result. The finest bishops'
rochets which appear in the later portraits by Hyacinthe Rigaud and de
Larguillière are of point de Sedan."
It is possible that both types of lace mentioned--the heavy kind, and the
lace with the réseau--are the productions of Sedan.
BURGUNDY.
Colbert was proprietor of the terre de Seignelay, three leagues from
Auxerre, which caused him to interest himself in establishing
manufactories, and especially that of point de France. In his
Correspondence are twelve letters relating to this manufacture for 1667-74,
but it did not succeed. At last, worn out, he says "the mayor and aldermen
will not avail themselves of the means of prosperity I offer, so I will
leave them to their bad conduct."
Specimens of a beautifully fine well-finished lace, resembling old Mechlin,
are often to be met with in Belgium (Fig. 112), bearing the traditional
name of "point de Bourgogne," but no record remains of its manufacture. In
the census taken in 1571, giving the names of all strangers in the City of
London, three are cited as natives of Burgundy, knitters and makers of
lace.[684] In the eighteenth century, a manufactory of Valenciennes was
carried on in the hospital at Dijon, under the direction of the magistrates
of the city. It fell towards the middle of the last century, and at the
Revolution entirely disappeared.[685] "Les dentelles sont grosses," writes
Savary, "mais il s'en débite beaucoup en Franche-Comté."
{256}LYONNOIS.
Lyons, from the thirteenth century, made gold and silver laces enriched
with ornaments similar to those of Paris.
The laces of St. Etienne resembled those of Valenciennes, and were much
esteemed for their solidity. The finest productions were for men's ruffles,
which they fabricated of exquisite beauty.
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