In the Victoria and Albert Museum there are two women's ruffs from
Nuremberg belonging to the latter part of the sixteenth or early
seventeenth century, and embroidered in blue and black silk and white
cotton, and edged with a coarse thread Mechlin lace with a large meshed
irregular plaited réseau, probably late seventeenth century.
Perhaps the finest collection of old German point is preserved, or rather
was so, in 1840, in the palace of the ancient, but now extinct,
Prince-Archbishops of Bamberg.
Several more pattern-books were published in Germany. Among the most
important is that printed at Augsburg, by John Schwartzenburg, 1534. It is
printed in red, and the patterns, mostly borders, are of delicate and
elegant design. (See APPENDIX.)
Secondly comes one of later date, published by Sigismund Latomus at
Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1605; and lastly, that {268}of "Metrepière Quinty,
demor[=a]t dempre legl[=i]e de iii roies," a cul[=o]ge (Cologne), 1527.
In Austria, writes Peuchet, "les dentelles de soie et de fil ne sont pas
moins bien travaillées." Many of the Protestant lace-workers took refuge in
the cities of Freyburg and Altenburg.
There is a collection in the Victoria and Albert Museum of cuffs
embroidered in satin stitch, and edged with bobbin-lace "torchon" of the
peasants' work in Slavonia in the eighteenth century. The patterns resemble
Cretan and Russian laces.
There is a comparatively modern variety of lace made in Austria and Bohemia
which resembles the old Italian bobbin-lace; the school where it is taught
is under Government patronage. This industry was established as a means of
relieving the distress of the Tyrol in 1850, and continues to flourish.
Austria sent to the International Exhibition of 1874 specimens of
needle-point and point plat made in the school of the Grand Duchess Sophie,
and specimens of border laces in the style of the Auvergne laces were
exhibited from the Erzgebirge and Bohemia.
At the Paris Exhibition, Austria and Vienna both exhibited copies of old
needle-point laces.
At Laybach, in Austria, there was at one time a bobbin-lace factory which
produced lace much esteemed in the eighteenth century.
The collection of Hungarian peasant lace in the Victoria and Albert Museum
collection contains specimens of coarse modern pillow-made lace, with rude
floral designs worked in thick thread or yellow silk.
The modern laces of Bohemia are tasteless in design. The fabric is of early
date. "The Bohemian women," writes Moryson, "delight in black cloth with
lace of bright colours." In the beginning of the nineteenth century upwards
of 60,000 people, men, women and children, were occupied in the Bohemian
Erzgebirge alone in lace-making. Since the introduction of the bobbin-net
machine into Austria, 1831, the number has decreased. There were in 1862
scarcely 8,000 employed in the common laces, and about 4,000 on
Valenciennes and points.[723]
PLATE LXX.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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