As regards the use, however, of these ornaments, the Queen stood no
nonsense. Luxury for herself was quite a different affair from that of the
people; for, on finding that the London apprentices had adopted the white
stitching and garding as a decoration for their collars, she put a stop to
all such finery by ordering[825] the first transgressor to be publicly
whipped in the hall of his Company.
Laid-work, which maybe answers to our modern plumetis, or simply signified
a braid-work, adorned the royal garters, "Frauncie," which worked "cum
laidwork," stitched and trimmed "in ambobus lateribus" with gold and silver
lace, from which hung silver pendants, "tufted cum serico color," cost her
Majesty thirty-three shillings the pair.[826]
{302}The description of these right royal articles appears to have given as
much trouble to describe as it does ourselves to translate the meaning of
her accountant.
The drawn-work, "opus tract'," seems to have been but a drawing of thread
worked over silk. We have smocks thus wrought and decorated "cum lez ruffs
et wrestbands."[827]
In addition to the already enumerated laces of Queen Elizabeth are the
bride laces of Coventry blue,[828] worn and given to the guests at
weddings, mentioned in the _Masques_ of Ben Jonson:[829]--
"CLOD.--And I have lost, beside my purse, my best bride-lace I had at
Joan Turnips' wedding.
"FRANCES.--Ay, and I have lost my thimble and a skein of Coventry blue I
had to work Gregory Litchfield a handkerchief."
When the Queen visited Kenilworth in 1577, a Bridall took place for the
pastime of her Majesty. "First," writes the Chancellor, "came all the lusty
lads and bold bachelors of the parish, every wight with his blue
bridesman's bride lace upon a braunch of green broom." What these bride
laces exactly were we cannot now tell. They continued in fashion till the
Puritans put down all festivals, ruined the {303}commerce of Coventry, and
the fabric of blue thread ceased for ever. It was probably a showy kind of
coarse trimming, like that implied by Mopsa in the _Winter's Tale_, when
she says--
"You promised me a tawdry lace:"[830]
articles which, judging from the song of Autolycus--
"Will you buy any tape,
Or lace for your cape?"
were already hawked about among the pedlars' wares throughout the country:
one of the "many laces" mentioned by Shakespeare.[831]
Dismissing, then, her stitches, her laces, and the 3,000 gowns she left in
her wardrobe behind her--for, as Shakespeare says, "Fashion wears out more
apparel than the man"[832]--we must confine ourselves to those articles
immediately under our notice, cut-work, bone lace, and purle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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