The thread used for lace is termed "filo soror," or nun's thread, such as
was fabricated in the convents of Flanders and Italy.[852] If, however,
Lydgate, in his ballad of "London Lackpenny," is an authority, that of
Paris was most prized:--
"Another he taked me by his hand,
Here is Paris thredde, the finest in the land."
Queen Elizabeth was not patriotic; she got and wore her {306}bone lace from
whom she could, and from all countries. If she did not patronize English
manufacture, on the other hand, she did not encourage foreign artizans; for
when, in 1572, the Flemish refugees desired an asylum in England, they were
forcibly expelled from her shores. In the census of 1571, giving the names
of all the strangers in the City of London,[853] including the two makers
of Billament lace already cited, we have but four foreigners of the lace
craft: one described as "Mary Jurdaine, widow, of the French nation, and
maker of purled lace"; the other, the before-mentioned "Callys de Hove, of
Burgundy."[854]
Various Acts[855] were issued during the reign of Elizabeth in order to
suppress the inordinate use of apparel. That of May, 1562,[856] though
corrected by Cecil himself, less summary than that framed against the
"white-work" of the apprentice boys, was of little or no avail.
In 1568 a complaint was made to the Queen against the frauds practised by
the "16 appointed waiters," in reference to the importation of
haberdashery, etc., by which it appears that her Majesty was a loser of "5
or 600 l. by yere at least" in the customs on "parsement, cap rebone bone
lace, cheyne lace," etc.,[857] but with what effect we know not. The annual
import of these articles is therein stated at £10,000, an enormous increase
since the year 1559, when, among the "necessary and unnecessary wares"
brought into the port of London,[858] together with "babies" (dolls),
"glasses to looke in," "glasses to drinke in," pottes, gingerbread,
cabbages, and other matters, we find enumerated, "Laces of all sortes, £775
6s. 8d.," just one-half less than the more necessary, though less refined
item of "eles fresh and salt."[859]
In 1573 Elizabeth again endeavoured to suppress "the silk glittering with
silver and gold lace," but in vain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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