James had half ruined the commerce of England by the granting of
monopolies, which, says Sir John Culpepper, are "as numerous as the frogs
of Egypt. They have got possession of our dwellings, they sip in our cups,
they dip in our {319}dish. They sit by our fire. We find them in the
dye-vat, wash-bowl, and powdering-tub, etc.; they have marked and sealed us
from head to foot."[915] The bone-lace trade suffered alike with other
handicrafts.[916] In 1606 James had already given a license to the Earl of
Suffolk[917] for the import of gold and silver lace. In 1621, alarmed by
the general complaints throughout the kingdom,[918] a proposition was made
"for the erection of an Office of Pomp, to promote home manufactures," and
to repress pride by levying taxes on all articles of luxury.[919] What
became of the Pomp Office we cannot pretend to say: the following year we
are somewhat taken aback by a petition[920] from two Dutchmen, of Dort,
showing "that the manufacture of gold and silver thread, purle, etc., in
England" was "a great waste of bullion," the said Dutchmen being, we may
infer, of opinion that it was more to their advantage to import such
articles themselves. After a lapse of three years the petition is
granted.[921] In the midst of all this granting and rescinding of
monopolies, we hear in the month of April, 1623, how the decay of the
bone-lace trade at Great Marlow caused great poverty.[922]
Though the laces of Flanders and Italy were much patronised by the court
and high nobility, Queen Anne of Denmark appears to have given some
protection to the fabrics of the country. Poor Queen Anne! When, on the
news of Elizabeth's death, James hurried off to England, a correspondence
took place between the King and the English Privy Council regarding the
Queen's outfit, James considering, {320}and wisely--for the Scotch court
was always out of elbows--that his wife's wardrobe was totally unfit to be
produced in London. To remedy the deficiency, the Council forwarded to the
Queen, by the hands of her newly-named ladies, a quantity of Elizabeth's
old gowns and ruffs, wherewith to make a creditable appearance on her
arrival in England. Elizabeth had died at the age of seventy, wizened,
decayed, and yellow--Anne, young and comely, had but just attained her
twenty-sixth year. The rage of the high-spirited dame knew no bounds; she
stormed with indignation--wear the clothes she must, for there were no
others--so in revenge she refused to appoint any of the ladies, save Lady
Bedford, though nominated by the King, to serve about her person in
England. On her arrival she bought a considerable quantity of linen, and as
with the exception of one article,[923] purchased from a "French mann," her
"nidell purle worke," her "white worke," her "small nidell worke," her
"pece of lawin to bee a ruffe," with "eighteen yards of fine lace to shewe
(sew) the ruffe," the "Great Bone" lace, and "Little Bone" lace were
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